Jeanette's travels

An Interlude In Canada 2011

2011-10-29T14:19:00.002+11:00

Hi Everyone,

How apt that I begin to write about our fabulous Canadian tour from Charlottetown, the birthplace of Canada. It was here that Confederation began in 1864. Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island (P.E.I) is the smallest of the three Maritime Provinces. Seafood and potatoes are being sidelined as tourism is taking over as the major part of the economy, largely due to the classic tale of Anne of Green Gables penned by Lucy Maud Montgomery in 1908.

The Confederation Bridge

After de-training (as they say here) from our overnight sleeper carriage on The Ocean Train from Quebec City, we crossed the amazing 13 km curved Confederation Bridge and like most tourist to P.E.I, we flocked to Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Cavendish National Historic site. The beautifully preserved historic home which inspired the tale of the famous fictional character is set in a peaceful garden, surrounded by rolling green hills leading to intriguing trails through wooded areas

Lucy Maud Montgomery’s Cavendish National Historic site

Secret wooded trail

Some of our group donned Anne’s signature straw hat with red braids attached and enjoyed a few special moments mind-drifting in the fantasy world of Anne.

Our tour officially began in Vancouver on 24 Sept when the full group met up with the eight who had arrived a week earlier to cruise the Inside Passage to Alaska. 75% of the group had travelled with Interlude Tours previously, so it was like one big happy excited family eager to discover Canada together. Immediately we took the ferry from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island to stay at the iconic Empress Hotel in Victoria.

The Empress Hotel Victoria

The highlight of this stay was definitely the immaculate and breathtaking Butchart Gardens. Whatever the plants here are fed, I want some for my garden. The tremendous variety of magnificent flowers and shrubs seemed twice the normal size with colours twice as vibrant, all growing happily in this weed-less stunning garden.

On a rainy day, we returned to Vancouver on the Nanaimo / Horseshoe Bay ferry taking in the Capilano Suspension Bridge. The rain only added to the thrill of our breathtaking walk across this swinging bridge, first constructed in 1889 and suspended 450 feet across the and 230 feet above the Capilano River. Not for the faint hearted.

Capilano Suspension Bridge

Cliff walk

Vancouver is notorious for changeable weather and that’s exactly what we got. Sunny days mixed with light rain. Certainly the weather did not stop our exploration of the city highlights such as Stanley Park with the wonderful display of Native Totem Poles, Gastown, Chinatown, English Bay, and Granville Island etc. However the view from Grouse Mountain over the city was veiled with mist so this sight was left to our imagination.

As luck would have it, apart from a couple of sprinkles, we did not see rain again for 15 days and even then it was light and only nuisance value. Every day we marveled at our weather-fortune particularly in the Maritimes where we experienced mainly Indian summer days. It was hard to believe that the week before the area had had snow, been hit by gale force winds so strong the Confederation Bridge was closed for 38 hours, electricity was cut and many areas were flooded.

Our Canadian rail travel began with the breathtaking 3 ½ hr Sea to Sky route from Vancouver to the gorgeous ski village of Whistler. Plenty of highlights during this train journey with stunning scenery of the Coast Mountains, Brandywine Falls, Mount Garibaldi and the ever impressive Cheakamus Canyon.

After spending an afternoon and night in Whistler Village, we boarded the renowned Rocky Mountaineer Train for the two day ride to Jasper. It soon became evident why this rail journey is known as one of the most spectacular train trips in the world. Just as the brochures promise, the varied scenery is breathtaking, from river canyons and lush farmland, through to desert-like conditions of the Fraser Canyon, rolling hills and ranch lands of the Cariboo Plateau and finally the stunning Rocky and Cariboo Mountains.

On board the Rocky Mountaineer

As it turned out, we got a lot more than what was promised in the brochure; in the middle of what looked like no-where, between Quesnel and Jasper, the train engine decided it did not want to go any further; it stopped! Engineers failed to coax it back to life and eventually buses arrived to take all the passengers to Jasper by road which wasn’t at all unpleasant as the scenery was just the same. During the 3 hr wait for the buses our carriage turned into what the train staff called ‘the party carriage’. Led by the Aussie Interlude Tour group, mainly one John Savage, who was in his element with a captive audience, we did have a great time making friends with other passengers, a sing-along or two accompanied by the trusty Uke of course, plus shared some Aussie jokes etc. As a reward for being so cheerful and uncomplaining, the passengers from our carriage were put into the first bus and shipped off to Jasper. At least that was the reason we were given…..could there have been another explanation, I wonder!!!

Entertaining the carriage during the breakdown

Top marks to The Rocky Mountaineer staff and management. The bewildered train staff had never experienced a breakdown on this train before. They did so well, they kept us informed of developments and fed, watered and wined us while supplies lasted. A letter of apology plus a lovely Rocky Mountaineers souvenir book was delivered to every passenger over the next day or so along with notification of a $100 compensation refund.

Our coach trip from Jasper to Banff along the Icefields Parkway that splits British Columbia and Alberta took us through more spectacular natural beauty of mountains peaks, lakes and valleys. We stopped at the Athabasca Falls and walked on the Athabasca Glacier considered to be one of the largest bodies of ice below the Arctic. That was a rather unique experience.

Athabasca Glacier

Walking on the Athabasca Glacier

Arriving at quaint Banff and staying in the beautiful Banff Springs Hotel to relax for a few days was a perfect stop before saying goodbye to Western Canada and flying from Calgary and to Montreal in Quebec Province.

Looking down on the Bamff Springs from Sulphur Mountain

To me, Montreal is just as French as Paris. This lively cultured and artistic cosmopolitan city has a great historic heritage. It blends old and new well. A 33km underground pedestrian network of boutiques, restaurants and theatres all designed to capture the natural light is fascinating. As a contrast Old Montreal is rather special with its narrow cobblestone rues, carriages, wonderful restaurants and rather expensive boutique hotels.

Underground shopping mall

Old blends with new in Montreal

Inside the Montreal Basilica

A visit to Montreal would not be complete without having a smoked meat sandwich at the legendary Schwartz’s Deli, so of course we did that and were not disappointed.

Line up for Schwartz Deli & a smoked sandwich

Jack & John share a smoked meat sandwich for lunch

If Montreal is just as French as Paris, in my opinion, Quebec City is more french that Paris….. Does that make sense? Anyway you know what I mean. We travelled again by train, this time VIA rail from Montreal to John’s favourite city, Quebec City and stayed at the imposing Chateau Frontenac in Old Quebec city. What a treat to stay in this glorious building perched on the bank of the mighty St Lawrence River and just a few steps away oldest shopping street in North America plus lovely cafes and restaurants, the Artist’s Alley and many quaint boutiques to browse. Our group made a visit to the impressive Montmorency Falls which is said to be 1 1/2 times higher than Niagara Falls. One couple in our group is convinced that the Fitzroy Falls in Australia are even higher. They may be right.

Chateau Frontenac

Back on a train again and an overnight sleeper took us to the Maritimes and our first night in Charlottetown P.E.I. where I started this narrative of our tour.

Magnificent autumn colours

Great aspect from the view carriage

It also took us to our first mouth-watering, lip smacking dinner of the sweet fresh Maritime lobster the lucky locals take for granted. This of course was not the last lobster dinner we feasted on. Along with clam and seafood chowder we unashamedly gorged on these luscious delicacies at every opportunity of which there were many over the next 7 days as we toured Nova Scotia. Unfortunately proof is in the expanding waistline!

The three Maritime Provinces are different to the other Canadian Provinces I have been to. There is a sense of calmness and the cities are like big country towns with a lay-back pace to match. The natural beauty is everywhere and our visit was heightened by the magnificent display of colours particularly around the Cabot Trail.

Warm Canadian hospitality when we called on friends in Brule Bay.

The interesting history of the battles to control this area and its rich resources and easy access to the sea is well preserved in excellent museums and galleries. Nova Scotia was the first of the Maritimes to be colonized by Europeans. The province has many claims to fame; it produced internationally famous artists including Anne Murray, Sarah McLaughlin and Rita McNeil plus actor Donald Sutherland and Alexander Graham Bell is honoured with a museum in Baddeck where he lived and is buried. Other claims to fame are the invention of kerosene, frozen fish and shrink-proof underwear plus the ‘trap-door in long johns for men!

Alexander Graham Bell Museum -National Historic Site in Baddeck

Our Aussie girls admire the quilting of the Baddeck ladies

Stepping back to 1744 at Louisbourg Fortress - another National Historic Site

Historic Halifax is set on the site of the world’s second largest natural harbour (Sydney harbour is bigger) and has the busiest port in all of Canada. This port is the home of Canada’s largest naval base. We took a sightseeing city tour on the Harbour Hopper, an old army duck converted to an amphibious vehicle which took us around the city and then on the harbor to see the city from the water. We were blessed with a very clear sunny day, as Halifax has very few clear days around the harbour.

Halifax harbour

Changing of the guard at the National Historic Sit - The Citadel Halifax

We had a somber stop at the Titanic grave site in the Fairview cemetery where many of the victims of the Titanic disaster are buried.

The graves of Titanic victums are arrange like the bow of a ship.

No visit to Nova Scotia would be complete without a visit to the stunning little fishing village and famous red and white lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove. Of course we did the tourist thing and stopped also at the beautifully preserved 18th century town of Lunenburg with its splendid coloured buildings. Unfortunately the Fisheries Museum was closed the day we were there and the famous Bluenose 11 (the reproduction of the race winning schooner) was undergoing refurbishment and not on display.

Peggy's cove

Our tour officially finished with 2 nights in Toronto after which the group dispersed with only three going directly home to Australia. Others went to different parts of the USA, to the UK and four of us onto my very favorite city; bustling New York City for six exciting days.
Everyone agreed it was a fantastic tour. The weather was extremely kind to us, a real bonus when travelling. The autumn colours were magnificent adding to the already stunning natural beauty of Canada. We consumed scrumptious food throughout, particularly the lobster and seafood in the Maritimes.

Colours on the Cabot Trail

Our accommodation was varied and I’m happy to modestly boast; well selected! We slept and dined in some of the most iconic hotels in the country including the very regal Empress Hotel in Victoria, The Banff Springs Hotel, the stunning Chateau Frontenac in Quebec City and the Royal York in Toronto along with some unique boutique hotels and even one excellent motel on Bras De’or Lake at Baddeck in NS. My two favourite stays were both in NS; The Waverley Inn - a real comfortable home away from home in this historic Inn in downtown Halifax. Have a peek www.waverleyinn.com
and the Train Station Inn in Tatamagouch, a unique concept where our rooms were converted boxcars or cabooses in one of Canada’s oldest railway stations which has been lovingly converted into an award winning country inn. The old telegraph room is now a gift shop, breakfast was served in the former men’s waiting room and we spent after dinner time in the guest lounge, once the Vice Royal carriage. http://www.trainstation.ca

Train Station Inn

Our Boxcar accommodation

Boxcar bathroom

Canadians are ever so hospitable, welcoming and eager to please. The cheerful and helpful attitude of staff in the service industries such as shops, restaurants, train stations, transport and hotels is truly amazing. Sadly one cannot help but compare this with the often shoddy and belligerent service received in many like establishments in Australia.

Australians do however have a couple of things over the Canucks – we know how to make tea and good coffee. We have one added tax (GST) across the country which is including in the displayed price. Canada does not have a uniform tax. The taxes vary in each province – with some provinces having 3 different taxes which can add up to 17% onto the displayed price of items, food etc.

After this very successful tour, I’m now eager to step onto home soil again. Unpacking and sorting the mail pile and emails in not something I look forward to, however catching up with friends, relatives and neighbours certainly is. So hopefully we will meet up soon.
Cheers,

Jeanette

Final email from Sourth Africa - private trip Feb 2011

2011-08-26T14:46:00.005+10:00

Hi Again,
\Four sleeps to go before we fly Cape Town/Joburg/Melb/Syd. This trip to South Africa has been absolutely fantastic but I will be happy to go home; enough of living out of a suitcase for the time being.

Friendly creatures in SA

South Africa is a big, incredibly beautiful and diverse country- twice the size of Texas and the size of Spain and France combined. We have covered a lot of kilometers, seen a lot of very different landscapes and people and learnt a lot. Stats are interesting - 68% Christians (& attend Church), 2% Islam, 1.5% Hindu and 28.5% Indiginous beliefs. Crime is an issue but not nearly the issue reported in the press. All is not black and white here, ie 'Coloured' means South African of mixed race.
The population is made up of 77% Africans (indigenious South Africans) 11% whites, 9% coloureds and 3% Indian. Afrikkaans is the mother tongue. English is widely spoken. This is a nation struggling to find its identity. Unemployment is running at 33% so terrible poverty as a result. No government handouts until 60 for men and 65 women and only if you have nothing....Rand 1200 per month - approx AUD $161.

My last missive was written 14 days ago when we had just arrived in Zimbabwe. Our stay at the grand Victoria Falls Hotel was just magic. Here we met some very interesting people from all over the globe including Godfrey Oettle and his charming wife Pam. Godfrey was the Forensic Pathologist at Sydney Morgue when John was working at the Coroner’s Court back in the 60’s. This meeting naturally called for a sundowner or two to give the chaps a chance to reminisce.

John, Pam & Godfrey

Victoria Falls was every bit as breathtaking as I had imagined. The walk along the viewing path of the falls was like taking a shower wearing an ineffective poncho. It’s impossible not to get drenched.

Ian & John on the falls path

The 15 minute helicopter ‘flight of angels’ (scary name) gave a wonderful overview of the whole area and the raging falls. This flight is a must. Many adventures and activities are available such as absailing, white water rafting, bungee jumping into the gorge (been there, done that so didn’t bother).

Weighing in before Flight of the Angles

Victoria Falls from the air

Landed safe & sound

Instead we acted our age and had a private walk with the lions in a sanctuary where there is a breeding program to save this beautiful animal from becoming extinct. We were instructed how to approach the lion from behind and where to touch it, given a long stick to put in its mouth if it turned around and told not to jump or run if it did this…..fat chance of obeying that advise!!! I loved this experience. With their keepers close at all times, we patted and stroked these gorgeous big pussy cats, without feeling one bit threatened.

Having a rest

After four wonderful days being thoroughly spoilt in Victoria Falls Hotel, the Savages and the Hamiltons flew to Durban for two nights. A rather dull uninteresting city and not known for its safety, Durban’s population is almost entirely black plus a large number of Indians. John and I took the 3 hour hop on (no hop off) bus with commentary. This was a good way to get a better overall feel for the city. After our tour the guide agreed to take us into the heart of the colourful bustling Victoria Markets where whites are not exactly welcomed. It was a fascinating experience, particularly in the massive witch doctors ‘pharmacy’ area where all bits of various animals and plants are for sale and prescribed for every ailment known to man. Photography is a definite no-no. It is obvious what we would call witch-craft, is not a dying practice in the province of KwaZulu-Natal.

Victoria Market Durban

Pharmacy stall in markets

The hotel where we stayed in Durban is situated on the beach-front which is very lovely since it was totally revamped for the World Cup. The esplanade has a wonderful swimming pool; extensive children’s play areas, fun parks, and an overhead cable car and is safe to amble along during daylight but definitely not advised at night. There is a strong police presence everywhere in Durban but one gets the feeling the police are a bit slapdash and casual, although when walking alone from a shopping centre to our hotel in the mid afternoon, I was stopped and questioned by two police and warned that I should walk with a companion even during the daytime. I did not feel unsafe, however I did not venture out again by meself!!!

Play area on the esplanade Durban

View from our hotel room in Durban

Our great Soooth Effrica driving adventure began the following day when we collected a Kia Sportive from Mr Hertz and set off on a 14 day exploration of the Eastern Cape through to Cape Town on the Western Cape.

Packing the car

We sought advice from various locals, guide books etc before we set off and I must tell you that never have I heard so many conflicting recommendations, suggestions or guidance’s in my entire travel experiences. Some said it is a lovely drive but by far the majority said it is a very boring drive until the renowned ‘Garden Route’ and couldn’t imagine why on earth we would want to drive it. Nothing to see they said; Unsafe, shocking roads. The last bit was right in many places I admit and we were very pleased we were in a hire car and not one of our own.

Some roads were a challenge

We are currently in Stellenbosch, almost at the end of this great drive. We took off-roads wherever possible and how rewarded we were with utterly stunning scenery, interesting and sometimes scary squalid third world African villages, desperately poor people living in disgusting squatter villages tucked away from the mansions overlooking fabulous beaches and inlets.

Typical village

We heed the warnings and travel with the doors locked and stop for no-one. We have stayed in an eclectic assortment in safe gated hotels, B & B’s or guest houses. The guest houses are really superb. The further west we travel, the safer the roads and areas seem to be but the security warnings are still stressed by the hotel operators and information centres.

Just love this photo. This women was walking home - more than 20 km. The goods she carried on her head were very heavy, we later gave her daughter and the goods a lift.

From Durban we drove The Wild Coast and it was just that. Our first overnight was in the rural seaside town of Port St John’s. What a sight, dramatic landscape of sea cliffs with Mt Thesiger covered in lush forests and a mighty river running to the ocean. We arrived on a Sunday afternoon and followed the signs to second beach which we thought may be a good area to stay. Those thoughts were quickly dropped. The potholed road was lined with totally intoxicated locals drinking beer and goodness knows what else. One young chap stood at the side of the road with nothing on except his pants around his ankles displaying his God-given goods. Believe me, he had plenty to show!! We guessed the drinking may have been the Sunday pastime but were later told by the hotel owner that it is a daily event. The second beach is stunningly beautiful. It is the first time I have seen cattle grazing on a beach. Amazing.

Between Port St Johns and Stellenbosch, we stayed at Hole in The Wall, where the sea water gushes through a natural hole in a massive rock formation, Cintsa (gorgeous seaside village), St Francis (village where all buildings white with grey/brown thatch roofs), Plattenberg (spoilt ourselves and booked into the iconic Beacon hotel), Victoria Bay, Witsand (could have died in this sleepy fishing village and never ever be found) and the beautiful seaside town of Hermanus.

Hole in the Wall

The garden route runs 200km from Storm River Mouth to Mossel Bay - billed as the South African Paradise. It is indeed a beautiful drive but I was a bit disappointed. After the spectacular scenery on the Wild Coast and the Sunshine Coast I had expected more. According to The Rough Guide, long ago the area was all lush green forest with rivers from the mountains north to southern rocky shores and sandy beaches. Dutch woodcutters came and exhausted the forests and the birds and animals suffered as a result. Today we see pine plantations, tourist shops and resorts along the garden route. Growth in tourism plus city dwellers seeking a quiet life or holidays homes in relatively crime free areas along the route have obviously robbed the area of much of its tranquility.

Stellenbosch is a stunning university city with magnificent heritage protected homes and buildings. The very lively historic centre has gorgeous avenues lined with 200 year old oak trees. It presents as a wealthy city although we have been approached by many more street beggars here than anywhere in SA. Afrikaans is the everyday preferred speaking language; much more so than in the North and North East. The city surround is almost all under vine so very lovely indeed and the wine routes are a major tourist attraction. Today we enjoyed a wonderful long lunch at the Delheim winery.

Delheim winery

Wine vats at Delheim winery

Delheim winery

Vegie garden at Delheim winery

It never ceases to amaze how inexpensive it is to eat in South Africa. Accommodation is also very cheap compared to Australia and Europe. To give you an idea, our lunch at the winery today included two bottles of excellent wine, starters, mains and coffee – the bill with tip came to R360 a couple – about AUD$52. We are presently staying at a top 4 star guest house with full service (turn downs etc) the room is huge, king bed, free internet, tea and coffee making facilities, the pool outside our door and full breakfast included…. $160 per room. This is by far the most we have paid for excellent accommodation on the road trip. We celebrated Valentines in one of the best restaurants in Stellenbosch, The Big Easy restaurant owned by South African golfer, Ernie Ells. About $100 a couple. Petrol is about $1.10 per litre.

We had some great accommodation

If you have not been here, put it on your bucket list. It’s a perfect country to backpack if you are under 35!

Today we drive the scenic route to Cape Town via The Cape of Good Hope . Only have to pack the bags two more times – yippee!

Savages & Hamiltons at Cape of Good Hope

I visited the notorious bleak Robben Island.

Entrance to Robben Island

Double security fences

The cell of Nelson Mandella

The mainland from Robben island

Australian Eucalyptus trees on the island

Cape Town

Multi coloured house in Capetown

Children busking in Cape Town

See you soon all being well.
Jeanette 18.2.11

First email from South Africa - private trip Feb 2011

2011-08-12T14:47:00.000+10:00

WOW/AWESOME - one hundred times over! That sums up Sth Africa for me after 12 days.
John says I should not to make my emails too long. I say there is so much I want to tell you about.
Dilemma solved by two versions – your choice!!!

Abridged version for our busy friends –
Arrived JNB on 20 Jan. Toured JNB, Soweto & Apartheid Museum. Spent one night in interesting Sun City. Went on 7 day safari – 3 nights in Kruger National Park and 3 nights in Game Park in Zululand with another fun couple from Italy…perfect travelling companions. Saw 4 or the big 5 (missed the elusive leopard) and saw many beautiful and some ugly animals, stunning birdlife and fascinating fauna. Returned to JNB via Swaziland. Very beautiful and green countryside. Feel very safe, people of every colour are friendly and welcoming. Racial tension not evident. On a South African Airways flight to Victoria Falls with friends Ian and Fay Hamilton now.

Unabridged version for those who have time -
20 Jan, we flew V Australia from Melbourne to Johannesburg (JNB) premium economy – comfortable roomy seats but somewhat sluggish service. Our base in JNB is the Holiday Inn hotel in Sandton, one of the better suburbs close to Mandela Square.

Before venturing on our 7 day safari to Kruger National Park and Zululand, we did the tourist bit beginning with a full day private tour of JNB. Firstly we were driven though the beautiful tree lined avenues in the exclusive suburb of Houghton where amazing mansions hide behind high walls topped with extensive hostile electric wiring. All appears very tranquil but the high security is a clue to reality. In days gone by this was the Jewish area of JNB. Nelson Mandela has one of his homes in Houghton. In fact he was taken to this home after his recent stint in hospital which caused much concern to everyone but that’s another story.

Nelson Mandella Square

From this affluent area we drove through the CBD (Newtown) now the art and cultural centre and the no-go suburbs such as Yuoville and Hillbrow where unemployment runs at 30% and illegal immigrants congregate. Our driver told us there has been a police blitz the previous day resulting in the detention of over 300 illegals who will be deported to their country of origin. We saw historic Constitution Hill where the British troops had a maximum security prison during the Anglo/Boer war about 1899. According to our guide, Gandhi, Mandela and Winnie were all incarcerated here at some later stage. The Boers had a monopoly on everything including the gold mines. JNB was founded on a gold mine.The Anglo-Boer War left a legacy of painful memories and mutual hatred. The British incarceration of Boer women and children in concentration camps left a bitter taste in the mouths of the Boers and lessened respect for the British Empire abroad.

The poor side of Soweto

The population of JNB is 10.2mill including Soweto. Soweto surprised me. I expected an area of abject poverty.

Street in Soweto Squartter Camp

Yard and veggie garden in Squatter house

Looking over JBurg

Home security fence

Sure there are the informal squatter camps where people live in huts mainly built of corrugated iron and whatever else is available. We walked through one of these camps with one of the young residents. It was surprising how clean and ordered it was with enviable veggie gardens in nearly every yard. No electricity and one toilet shared between 3 homes, running tap water the same. Gas or kerosene burners for cooking and candles provide light. Soweto covers 140 sq km and there are many very nice areas and lovely homes including nice-looking B & B’s. If I come back here, I would like to stay in one and really meet and mix with the locals.

Matchbox house.

Many of these homes began as ‘matchbox’ houses which were given to the renters on a 99yr lease after apartheid. Until then blacks could not own houses. We drove down famous Vilakazi Street. Famous because it is the only street in the world where two Nobel Prize winners lived at one time i.e., Nelson Mandela and Desmond Tutu. Winnie still lives in Soweto. We saw the place outside the school where Hector Pieterson was shot and killed during the 1976 Soweto uprising.

Hector Pieterson was shot and on the square killed during the 1976 Soweto uprising

Hand signals for hitch-hiking

Lastly but certainly not least, we visited the sobering Apartheid Museum, entering through segregated passages as allotted on our entrance tickets. Immediately, before even seeing any exhibits, one can sense and further imagine the uncomfortable denigrating and humiliating existence blacks and coloureds led before and during Apartheid. Thank God for Nelson Mandela, the ANC and the others who fought against apartheid and campaigned for the freedom charter and justice throughout the world.

Apartheid Museum

Segregated passages as allotted on our entrance tickets to Apartheid Museum

Walkway inside Apartheid Museum

This is probably a good time to mention racism. If it exists it is well hidden. I see everywhere young coloureds, blacks and whites enjoying each other’s company, eating, laughing and working together. This current generation I believe will end racism here. One 23 year old white game park ranger told us that all white and colours were friends in his generation, no discrimination whatsoever. It is the people of earlier generations whose memories will not allow them to completely forget and forgive. The worm has turned here and naturally not everyone is happy about that. One chap expressed his real concern about what may happen when Mandela passes on. Although Mandela is 92 and not politically active, he is astoundingly widely respected and nobody wishes to upset him.

John showing the photo of himself with Nelson Mandella

This is a copy of the photo which enthralled everyone.

John has a photo of himself and Nelson Mandela taken in 2000 when Mandela came to Australia for Sydney Uni’s ‘Champions of The Mind’ conference. Savage Communications did the PR for the Uni. The photo is becoming rather tatty having been shown to almost everyone John has met since getting off the plane. The response is astounding. In absolute awe, they ask where, when and how John met him and many, white and black, say they would give anything to touch or talk to Madiba as he is known. I mentioned before that Mandela recently had a stint in hospital with a chest condition. The whole country almost went into true heartfelt mourning. I can only imagine the turmoil and anguish his death will cause.

Now back to our travelogue!!
Without doing any research on the place, we decided to spend a night in Sun City. Somewhat an odd experience but one we are happy to have had. We took a local shuttle bus (14 seat people mover) to travel the 160km from JNB.

The countryside on the way was stunning with green undulating farmland with a backdrop of mountains, lots of market gardens and new estate farms. Also many squatters huts dotted along the way. Sun City is like a giant gated theme park. It was Saturday and crowded with families and because we hadn’t done our homework, a little baffling at first trying to work out what it was all about. I’m still shaking my head a little but I actually I think it was just about having a jolly good time.

Entrance to Sun City

Cultural village

In the Sun City Casino

Auditorium Sun City

Meerkat at Sun City Croc farm

Loved the colours of the bird

Sky train at Sun City

Sun City Pool

We had not booked accommodation and were very lucky & relieved to finally part with a lot of Rand in exchange for a lovely chalet or rondavel (African hut) in a small privately run hotel built like an African Village. This hotel is attached to a crocodile farm, home to over 700 crocs. I didn’t fancy that much but we had free entry with our inflated room rate and it was fantastic as was our stay. Sun City offers just about any type of entertainment or activity one could imagine with free shuttles or sky train to take you from one to another.

BIG croc.

Brave John holding small croc

There is a Gary Player Golf Course, Casino, horse riding, cultural village, a massive games arcade, heaps of excellent restaurants and possibly the most amazing is the Valley of the Waves….. a huge man-made swimming area where waves are somehow generated and released, just like a Bondi surf at its best.

Man made surf beach called 'Valley of the Waves'

Everything is man-made including the sandstone rock formations of the main entertainment buildings. Fascinating, so very glad we made the effort.

Sun City where everything is man-made

Now onto what we had envisaged would be the highlight of our trip. Our 7 day safari. We were not disappointed for a second. One other couple shared this fabulous experience with us and we could not have selected better travelling companions, Ralph and Nadia from Italy. Ralph is a Vet in Rapallo (some Interlude travelers will know that is a where we catch the ferry to Portofino.) Nadia is a Simultaneous Interpreter based in Milan. They were very good fun people who made the Savages seem like honeymooners!! No kidding!

John, Nadia, Ralph & Jeanette on safari.

Throughout the entire safari we had wonderful informative driver/guides. We travelled the scenic Panorama Route to our first stop near Hazyview. This route has spectacular scenery of gorges, valleys and canyons all the way. Thank goodness we chose not to fly. We stopped along the way for lunch at historic and quaint Pilgrim’s Rest, the site of the first major gold rush in South Africa, God’s window and the breathtaking Lisbon Falls.

The first 3 nights we spent in a luxurious suite under thatch in Umbhaba Lodge on a high hillside above the Sabie Valley just outside the Kruger National Park. From here we went into Kruger once on a night game drive and twice on full day game drives starting at 6am. Kruger Park covers 2 million hectares, twice the size of Israel so ‘they’ say.

Our suite at Umbhaba Lodge

The area has had lots of recent rain so the grass was tall and plenty of water lying around which meant that the animals did not have to go to the watering holes to drink. The watering holes are where they are mainly spotted. We saw 4 of the big five, only missing the leopard. Other than miss seeing the elusive leopard, we were so very fortunate to see many other wonderful animals roaming free and spectacular bird life and flora. We saw scores of elephants, impala, hippos, kudus, zebra, rhinos, warthogs, lions, and lots of regal giraffes (probably my favourite). They say there are 110,000 impalas in the park and I’m sure we saw 109,999 of them.

Thankfully we did not come across the scary black mamba, one of Africa’s most aggressive snakes. One ranger told us it was good that the grass was so long as the animals come out to the open tracks to get out of the wet grass. We did see heaps of animals on the tracks so he was right. Mozzies were not a problem either.

The long grass

Although long, the drive from Kruger Park to the Ubizane Safari Lodge in Zululand offered more remarkable beauty with green rolling hills, grasslands and valleys dotted with pine and blue gum plantations, sugarcane crops and overflowing waterways. Cole trucks take this road to get to the eastern harbour port of Richards Bay. These heavy trucks have caused heaps of giant potholes so it was rather rough going in places. Our accommodation was again in very modern self contained thatched African huts in a game reserve. Giraffes, Kudu and impalas wandered freely past our door. We were treated like royalty here. Two more games drives, one through the famous Hluhluwe-Imfolozi Park and one through the reserve where we stayed.

Ubizane Safari Lodge in Zululand

Buffet under the stars at Ubizane Safari Lodge in Zululand

Morning Tea on safari

View from Ubizane Safari Lodge in Zululand

We had a day trip to St Lucia for a boat cruise in the St Lucia estuary of the Indian Ocean. Saw heaps of hippos and crocs in this waterway plus magnificent birdlife. I think I got some really good photos with my little old camera even though it was somewhat intimidating snapping away beside the serious photographic gear a lot of tourists had. It was on this cruise I decided that bird watchers are a breed of their own!

Hippo and croc sunning themselves

We have learnt a lot about the animals and their habits, the birdlife and the flora. One has to wonder at the brilliance of Mother Nature. Did you know that hippo cannot swim or float? They actually sink to the bottom of the waterways and walk along the floor. These massive mammals can travel at 50km an hour and do so every day looking for food.

Mango tree

Another fascinating fact is that the mangrove trees which line the edge of salt water estuary cannot grow in salt water. So how do they live? The tree soaks up the water and somehow sifts the salt and deposits the salt to a sacrificial branch or limb which of course dies. Another very lovely tree called the fever tree which grows in areas with plenty of water does the same, only it’s sacrificial branch receives the toxins from the underground water which in turn kill that limb.

Traditional welcome to Zulu village

The Zulu women dance

When in Zululand, we realized how close we were to Swaziland and decided to travel though there if possible instead of skirting around the country on our way back to JNB. Swaziland is a Kingdom and not part of South Africa. Because this detour was not pre-arranged, our gorgeous driver James, (who looks as if he just stepped out of the ‘Driving Miss Daisy’ film) did not have his passport and the vehicle did not have the necessary permit to enter Swaziland. Not to be discouraged, with much help from the Management of the Wildlife Lodge, it was arranged for a Swazi tourist car and guide to meet us at the southern Lavumisa/Golela customs boarder and we travelled four hours through the middle of Swaziland to Oshoek border post on the north-west side where James met us.

Ralph & Jeanette at Immigration

Security is tight in all shops.

A gorgeous Swazi girl.

Swaziland is only small and although it was indeed a whistle-stop glance between the borders and thanks to Lucky our very informative and candid guide, we got a feel for this beautiful country and its attractive people. They are a much better looking race that the Zulus. We even had time to visit the famous Manzine market and the candle and craft centre and drive around the Ezulwini Valley (Valley of Heaven) at the bottom of the Malagwane hill.

Candle shop

Market in Swaziland

The majority of the people are very poor. Unemployment is sky high. Aids is a huge problem but small steps are being taken to stall this dilemma. Free condoms are on the counters at immigration and customs and in service station toilets. It is amazing that the 42 year old King Mswati 111, who was educated in Sherborne School in England, is so popular when his fourteen wives each live in magnificent homes and are driven around in BMW’s with at least two escorts and apparently travel extensively and engage in massive spending sprees. At the same time people live in poverty, particularly in rural areas, schools are not free so many children are not getting a chance to be educated; there are no government hand outs for the underprivileged. Sugar cane is the main crop and cattle. A man has to pay 11 cows for a virgin wife. If she is not a virgin, the man can negotiate!!!

A village in Swaziland

Off to Swazi Church

Food has been fresh, plentiful and varied and very inexpensive compared to Sydney. Meat is big here as are the servings. A wide variety of lentils and beans and veggies are usually on the menu. Wine is excellent and again inexpensive.

Last night Ian and Fay Hamilton joined us in JNB. Today the four of us flew to Zimbabwe to the world heritage site of Victoria Falls; named by David Livingstone when he first sighted them in 1855.

Jeanette, John, Fay & Ian arriving in Zimbabwe

Victoria Falls Hotel

Our room at Victoria Falls Hotel

View of falls from hotel

Jeanette, John, Ian & Fay

Resting in the hotel

We are staying at the magnificent stately Victoria Falls Hotel which first opened its doors in June 1904. This majestic hotel rightly boasts a fascinating history and is a worthy member of The Leading Hotels of The World. I’m looking forward to the next three days exploring this breathtaking area before returning the South Africa.

A little bit of Victoria Falls

We get snippets of news from Australia. South Africans are sports mad and this is a fact well supported by the extraordinary number of TV sports channels compared to news channels. The sports section in the papers covered the Aust Tennis Open well which was great and we got delayed TV coverage. We know that Jimmy Buffet took a tumble from the stage at the Hordern Pavilion, that Julia has put some sort of scaled ‘flood’ levy on Australian tax payers and that Sydney is presently roasting in high temperatures. Oh my poor roses and pot plants! Thanks everyone for taking care of them. Our thoughts are with people in the flood areas.

Until my next installment take care
Jeanette 2.2.11

Classic European Interlude - Aug/Sept /Oct 2010

2011-08-06T15:36:00.112+10:00

Hello from Paris where it is trying hard to shower on our parade but failing to dampen the enthusiasm of our group on their last day exploring this romantic City of Light. Unfortunately there is also a strike about the retirement age in France taking place today. Consequently all museums and art galleries are closed and public transport is running on a reduced timetable which is still about 75% better than the PT in Sydney.

Group ready to fly.

Our Classic European Interlude tour finishes tomorrow. Twelve of our group of 21 return to Australia with the rest continuing on with individual travel to various places. John and I are taking the Eurostar to London tomorrow. After a couple of days there, we fly to Turin Italy and have 4 days with our friend Daniela and her parents. We will be back in Sydney 20 Oct.

St Pancras station London

Our group left Australia on 29 August and from what we gather it was a good time to be away and miss to hoo-haa with the independents deciding which party to side with. Also missed the AFL finals. Sad the Swannies bowed out early and just heard the score of the grand final replay today which sounds like a bit of a non-event after the original grand final game last week. Suppose we have to acknowledge the Collingwood players, although I would have been much more gracious with the praise and happier if St Kilda had won.

It is 35 days since we flew out of Sydney and our tour since seems to have gone so very quickly until we recall landing in Rome and that seems like months ago. Altogether we covered 4659 km travelling in three very comfortable Peugeot Tepee 9 seat vehicles which are an absolute dream to drive. For the Rev-heads - our diesel average was 8.9L/100kms and the average speed was 59km/hr. Each vehicle carried 7 passengers, each with one large baggage and one carry on. As always, the baggage weight, size and number increased significantly after numerous shopping sprees!!

Trevi Fountain Rome

A tight fit but we made it!

From Rome we had a lovely meander through Tuscany to stay in a stunning small hotel in the center of the historic hilltop village of Cortona (have you read Under the Tuscan Sun?).

View from Cortona

The over-night ferry took us across the Adriatic Sea to Croatia. Everyone really enjoyed the experience of this mini cruise. Sunny Croatia is a beautiful as ever and the magnificent Plitvicka Lakes in the National Park never fail to impress. Hungary came next.

Central Markets Budapest

Hero Square Budapest

Visit to the wonderful Jewish Museum Budapest

Central Market Budapest

Opera House Budapest

We stayed at Keszthely on Europe's largest fresh water lake - Lake Balaton before our three nights in Budapest where I must reveal the Danube is still not blue. I still think the amazing architecture in this city is just about the best in Europe. It was wonderful to dine in the ever so elegant Gundel restaurant again.

Our splendid musical fix was had in Vienna thanks mainly to Mozart and Johann Strauss. Not to forget the wonderful buildings here either, such as the Schonbrunn Palace, the State Opera House and the Romanesque facade of St Stephen's Cathedral to name a few. Memories of Mozart chocolates and the renowned Sacher Torte will not be forgotten quickly as most of our group admit they are taking some home on their hips!!

Schonbrunn Palace

Light rain greeted our arrival in Prague and on one of the free days there it was so very heavy it did mar the day for sightseeing. However this group is particularly fond of shopping, very creamy rich cake, ice-cream, coffee and a vino or two; so they were just a happy to take refuge in one of the delightful cafes, bars, restaurants or shops. Not necessarily in that order!

Beautiful architecture in Prague

Austria came next. Here we had 3 nights in a gorgeous hotel nestled in the forest woods around the very small Austrian Village of Acharting, 9 km from Salzburg. www.hammerschmiede.at We were fortunate that the weather cleared enough for our handsome Austrian guide Helmut, to take us to visit Hitler's Eagles Nest. The group really had a hoot in the Salt Mines too. Weather was perfect for our day in Salzburg, so everyone was very happy.

Our hotel in the forest.

Dressed to go down the salt mine

At Hilter's Nest

The small Slovenian lakeside village of Bled is one of the most picturesque and romantic villages in Europe. Our group loved this stop and took full advantage of the wonderful fresh air revelling in the immence natural beauty whilst strolling the pathway around the lake and taking a ride in the rowboats.

Bled from hotel balcony

Back to Italy and Mestre/Venice. Yipee - the Interlude staff had a full day off here and whilst most of the group discovered Venice, we made the short train journey to historic Padua. Here we met up with Australian friends who had rented a magnificent old villa set in a wonderful parkland garden. They treated us to a delicious lunch with a table set in the garden under the trees - sooooo Italian and great fun.

Lunch in Padua

Villa kitchen

Villa in Padua

Our final days in Italy were spent in historic Verona and then Stresa on Lake Maggiore. I had not stayed in Stresa before. Totally gorgeous.

The weather worsened as we arrived at the home of the magnificent Materhorn, Zermatt, Switzerland. Rain, rain and more rain. However the ride on the Gornergrot to the top station was still possible and everyone thought very worthwhile.

Zermatt

From Switzerland to Colmar France. On the way we called at Mulhouse and visited the Schlumph collection of classic and vintage cars in the Mulhouse National Motor Car Museum. Colmar has a charming city centre with half timbered houses, balconies, wood sculptured facade and gables from the Renaissance era. One of the quaintest areas is what is known as Little Venice where ancient houses are reflected in the waterway which passes through the city.

Little Venice -Colmar France

On the home stretch now staying at Reims in the heart of the champagne area of France and visiting the Moet & Chandon cellars and having a sample or two. Not the drivers of course! Following that visit, the passengers slept until we arrived in Peronne.

Australian Memorial at La Hamel

Our last day before heading for Paris was spent touring the Australian battlefields and monuments of the Somme. The relatively new and beautiful Australian Memorial at La Hamel which was opened by Quentin Bryce only two years ago is very sobering and graphic in detail of the battle fought there in 1918. On my last visits to this area I have told you about the Franco-Australian Museum at Villiers-Bretonneux which tells the story of the Australians during WW1 with exhibitions including photos, uniforms, models, letters and a video room. We spent some time at the imposing Australian National memorial which bears the names of missing Australian soldiers who fell in France and have no name on their gravestones.

Later on this so far sombering day, we jollied up for the final group dinner of the tour. It has become customary for each bus to put on some sort of performance on this night. I must say this group outdid the previous groups with songs, dances and poems composed about the trip. Our bus also put on a pantomine based on Roald Dahl's revolting Cinderella. It is amazing how the shy shine on stage and thoroughly come out of their comfort zone to entertain and have fun. It was all recorded on video and it has been hinted that it may appear on U-tube. A great way to wind up a truly wonderful tour.

Bus # 1 - Cinderella skit

Bus # 2

Bus #3

On our travels we visited many lovely villages and very scenic areas on the back roads. One village in particular I would like to mention is Cesky Krumlov in Czech Republic. Totally gorgeous, put it on your must-visit list.

Our last European tour was two years ago and it is interesting to note and enjoy the improvment in hotel services throughout this tour. Breakfasts in particular have been excellent - seems the dreaded 'continental breakfast' is a thing of the past. Internet corners and Wifi connections are available in most hotels - many free. Towels are bigger and thicker. Overall our varied accommodation has been wonderful particularly the small boutique hotels with so much character.

So we finish this tour here in Paris. The hotel is a new one for Interlude, sourced by John when he was here for the Rugby World Cup. It is situated in a perfect position across the road from Bir-Hakeim metro and just around the corner from Tour Eiffel and the Australian Embassy. As with all Parisian hotels, the rooms are small but tastefully furnished with a good sized bathroom. I would certainly recommend it - have a look www.eiffelseine.com.

Foyer & small bar of Hotel Eiffel Seine

It is satisfying and a bit of a relief when the buses are returned and everyone is safe and sound at their final destination without any major mishaps. The worst that happened was that one of our fellas was pick-pocketed on a tram in Prague which was somewhat upsetting for him. I would advise everyone especially when travelling to join Secure Sentinal or similar. If credit cards, phones are lost or stolen it only takes one reverse charge call to them and everything is cancelled and reissued without fuss.

I made a friend in Vienna

Sampking the local fare in Vienna

Somewhere I left behind my favourite 'dress up' shoes, John left a book with only a couple of chapters to go, in the hotel in Peronne. If anyone has a copy of Mistress of the Game, please can we borrow for a day or two! To add to the excitement, the third bus driven by John lost sight the other two buses as we came into the centre of Paris. They got caught at a red light and their two-way ran out of battery so they could not pick up instructions from our navigator. Awfully stressful , but John just got a taxi to guide them to the hotel. I am lucky, John and Graeme Furness are excellent drivers and Kim Furness is a very competent navigator.

The Interlude Staff taken in Zermatt

Looking forward to getting home and finalizing the Interlude tour for 2011... a great tour to Canada in September.
Hope to catch up soon,

Jeanette 5.10.10

Last email Canada & NY re-union June 2010

2011-08-04T12:35:00.000+10:00

Famious NYC Carnegie Deli

Hi Everyone,
Almost on the home-run now and beginning to look forward to getting back to Australia, home and dumping the suitcases! It has been a wonderful trip and we have covered so much ground without rushing.
Once again I am composing this missive on a train – Amtrak this time, New York City to Toronto.

HERE IS THE ABRIDGED VERSION FOR BUSY FOLK-
Following on from my last email:- After 3 days in Quebec City we travelled by car through Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island with Richard & Valerie Pennick and John & Karen Burchell. For ten days we played tourists visiting many of the National Historic Sites of Canada and places of interest. We covered some very scenic countryside including the Cabot Trail. This mini trip finished with 2 nights in Halifax before we flew to New York City for 4 nights. Heaven. I absolutely adore the no-stop buzz of Manhatten. Shortly we will disembark this train at Toronto from where we will fly home in 4 days time. OK- Bye busy folk – get back to work!!

Love people watching in NYC

Foods good too

Now the unabridged version for those who have time to spare: -

This morning we left Penn station in NYC at 7.15am for our 12 hr trip to Toronto Canada. Comfy leather seats, plenty of leg room. Like many rules and regulations which have changed in US since 9/11, trains no longer have baggage cars. All luggage travels with its owner, however there is generous luggage space. Post boxes hardly exist either because of the fear of bombs being dumped inside.

I’m sad to be leaving the bright lights and buzz of New York City. Even though we hardly drew breath during our 4 days there and had visited only last year, there is still so many things left to do and see in this vibrant city which Richard Pennick aptly described as the centre of the universe. Our arrival at our NY hotel was memorable and had us somewhat stunned; the entrance and half the hotel resembled a bomb site. Until then we were unaware the hotel is undergoing major renovations. The saving grace was the top location between 6th & 7th Avenue on 47th street, a mere stone’s throw from the bright lights of pulsating Times Square, the exciting Broadway theatre district and the Rockefeller Center plus our transfer to a modern renovated room after John had a word with the hotel Manager.

From this

to this!!

Needless to say my NY ‘to-do’ list is shorter now. Apart from re-visited and people-watching in the distinct neighborhoods such as Chinatown, Little Italy etc we of course ‘did’ the famous NYC discount stores. My purchasing was stymied – no room in my tiny suitcase, no doubt probably a financial blessing.

Cycling in Central Park

Walking Brooklyn Bridge

In perfect weather, John and I hired bikes and cycled around and through the great Central Park, we walked the elevated pedestrian crossing of the Brooklyn Bridge with views over Manhattan and the statue of Liberty; this was the closest we got to climb the 354 narrow steps to the top of the great dame. We finally got to see the musical Jersey Boys on Broadway (missed it last year), dined at some fabulous restaurants outside the tourist areas, joined the huge rowdy flag- waving colourful crowd last Sunday to watch one of NY’s largest parades, the spectacular Puerto Rican Day Parade along 5th Avenue – all smiles and salsa, even saw Jennifer Lopez and Michael Bloomberg. It was amazing to see NYPD guys and gals not marching but dancing, singing and waving madly, having a wonderful time responding to the enthusiasm of the predominately Puerto Rican crowd. What a stunning looking race they are (the Puerto Ricans, not the members of the NYPD). The state troopers were another matter…..they marched in perfect time, no smiles, no flags – totally professional and serious and definitely no sideway glances towards the energized spectators. No prizes either for spotting the secret service agents scattered throughout – tiny wires running from their ears down the back of tailored dark grey suits, sporting #1 cuts on top of oh-so-serious faces with eagle eyes darting it all directions - just like on TV. We were told NY has 30000 police and I believe each one was on duty for the day of the parade.

Puerto Rican Day Parade

Spot the secret service guy!!

Since I emailed last we spent time in John’s favourite city Quebec City staying at the fabulous historic Chateau Frontenac. That was a once in a lifetime thrill for me. Like Montreal Quebec city is more French than Paris.

We stayed at the fabulous Chateau Frontenac

Chateau Frontenac at night.

Our room at Chateau Frontenac

Art Street in Old Quebec City

Old Quebec City

We took a sleeper on an overnight train to arrive in rainy Truro, Nova Scotia where we were met by Richard and Valerie Pennick and John and Karen Burchell.

John settling in for the overnight train journey

Arriving in Nova Scotia

We spent the next two nights relaxing as guests of John and Karen at the Burchell family beach cottage in Brule Bay. It was here I experienced for the first time the famous Nova Scotia home lobster boil dinner. The fresh live lobsters (one each) were dropped into a large pot of boiling sea water to cook. Wearing bibs and sitting around the large dining table covered in plastic and thick layers of newspaper, table manners were discarded as the ever so tasty sea bugs were dissected and devoured without aplomb and (in my case anyway) much needed instruction and many laughs from the locals. Such a special treat before setting off on our 10 day adventure together which began with a drive over the 13km Confederation Bridge to first visit Prince Edward Island and many National Historic sites of Canada spread over Nova Scotia.

Puchasing the lobsters - about $5 a kilo

Lobsters boiled in salt water from the sea

Ready to eat!

Bruel Bay Nova Scotia

Highlights of PEI included Charlottetown, the birthplace of Confederation and the Province House, a National Historic Site of Canada. I’m sure just like I did, many of you read Anne of Green Gables by Lucy Maud Montgomery when you were growing up. It was interesting to visit the lovely house and gardens where this book was set and where the author was married. Today there is a museum attached where you can have your photo taken wearing Anne’s hat with bright red/orange braids! There are also loads of books, videos, quilts, throws, jewellery and tacky souvenirs for sale.

Anne ???

We returned to Nova Scotia via the car ferry from Wood Island to Caribou to Cape Breton. Here we stayed in a gracious B & B called Annfield Manor at Bras d’Or. This historic building in magnificent grounds had once been the home of John Burchell’s grandfather and boasts the first ever private elevator in Nova Scotia. Although no longer operational is still in place waiting to be re-commissioned.

Annfield Manor at Bras d’Or

With some embarrassment I must confess my knowledge of Nth American history was practically non-existent before this trip. I am happy to have been introduced to the enthralling times past even at this late stage in life!!! Consequently I am presently reading and totally absorbed by the historic novel ‘His Majesty’s Yankees’, written by Thomas H. Randall, set in Nova Scotia during the American Revolution. We were fortunate to visit many of the historic landmarks featured in this book including a wonderful day visiting, the Fortress of Louisbourg, now a National historic site of Canada. A fascination day which took us back in time to the sights and sounds of 1744 when Louisbourg was a fortified French colonial stronghold seaport town that later endured two violent sieges. By 1760 the English had captured and destroyed the fortifications. This is the largest reconstructed 18th century town in Nth America and well worth a visit.

Fortress of Louisbourg

Also very worth a visit was the Alexander Graham-Bell museum. An awesome memorial to to a great teacher, inventor and humanitarian.

Alexander Graham-Bell museum

The weather wasn’t the best during this time but failed to dampen our spirits. We drove the famed Cabot Trail loop anti clockwise and mainly in rain which was a pity but could still appreciate the beauty of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the French and MacKenzie mountains. I hope one day to do this stunning trail again in sunshine.
I also really enjoyed walking through the elegant country mansion of Richard John Uniacke. Historians will know the significance of this prosperous Irishman, politician and later attorney general who was once arrested on the suspension of treason after the Cumberland Rebellion. A reportedly dashing man, he married Martha, the 13 year old daughter of his employer and had 12 children. This mansion was home to seven generations of his family. Poor Martha died at 42 – probably from exhaustion although that is not officially recorded!

Uniacke Mansion

The architecture in Nova Scotia is typical New England style, neat, freshly painted weatherboard homes set in manicured unfenced lawns. Most churches are weatherboard too including the steeples and painted white with black trim.

Typical Nova Scotia architecture

Another notable stop south of Halifax was the charming town of Lunenburg. Situated on the edge of the Altantic, Lunenberg is full of old world charm and wonderful architecture. It is home to Bluenose 11, which we were fortunate to board and walk around the deck. Built on the wharf, the renowned Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic was like going back in time with fascinating exhibits and magnificent aquarium.

Fisheries museum - takin from the deck of Bluenose 11.

I'm sure you have heard of Peggy's Cove and the renowned lighthouse. The day we visited it was surrounded by a filming crew.

The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove

Peggys Cove

Halifax as you know is the capital of Nova Scotia. It’s a walking city and would be boring if it was without such an important past. A Canadian had told me Halifax was very much like Sydney Australia – absolute rubbish!!! The city architecture is very drab although just on the city fringe there are some magnificent old homes. The city gardens are stunning as is the art gallery and the Maritime Museum is extremely interesting.

Deck chair from the Titanic at Maritime Museum

One of the tombs of a victum of the Titanic

Many Titanic victums are burried in this Cemetery

Entrance gate to the stunning Halifax Public Garden

Part of Halifax Public Garden

A hearty Nova Scotian breakfast!

We have just had a taste of the high security to expect in Toronto which is hosting the G20 summit in the next week or so. Customs and immigration usually check travel docs on the train at the US/Canadian border. Today every passenger had to disembark with all luggage and file through a makeshift ‘immigration office’ at the Niagara Rail Station. About 10 very stern custom officers wearing flap-jacks and weighed down with massive amount of weaponry paraphernalia plus sniffer dogs searched the train and everyone was processed were we allowed to re-board. Some passengers were rejected, including a nun.

Well that’s about it for now.
See you back in Australia in the very near future all being well.

Jeanette 17.6.10

First email Canada private re-union 31 May 2010

2011-08-02T14:36:00.068+10:00

Hi Everyone,
I'm excited to tell you that exactly 30 minutes ago, on Montreal Gare, I was introduced to the new love of my life. Not a ‘who’ but a ‘what’- Via Rail Canada. Canadians know how to do everything in style - except make tea.

My seat is as comfortable as any lounge chair, my legs will never stretch as far as the seat in front of me and I am connected to complementary WI-FI allowing me to keep in touch with you poor people in rainy Sydney and elsewhere in Australia. To top it off, a hunky guy who is extremely easy on the eye, is pushing a trolley laden with snacks and drinks of choice down the aisle. All complimentary.

As I sip my iced & spiced clamarto juice and gaze out the window on the farmlands, I am pondering on where to start and how to tell you about the wonderful time and experiences we have already enjoyed in this beautiful country since arriving on 13 May. OK, I know many of you will now be thinking briefly I hope so that is what I will try and do. However it is over a 3 hr train ride so I have time to fill! Uh-Oh handsome hunk, who also comes with the delightful inherent Canadian humour, has just handed me a tempting menu to choose my lunch, plus a hot towel so more later. This sure isn't the Spirit of Progress!

Yummie, - Mesclun salad and walnut-crusted goat cheese followed by sauteed shrimps and scallops served in a ginger garlic sauce and jasmine rice with stir fried veggies. All delicious.

Briefly, this visit was originally planned by John and three chaps he worked closely with when Savage Communications represented Canadian Tourism Commission in Australia. All four have now retired so this is a reunion or catch up and surprise surprise, the better-halves were invited!! So in the mix we have Richard & Valerie Pennick from NZ, Derek and Margaret Hood (western Canada) and John and Karen Burchell (east Canada).

John Burchell, John Savage & Richard Pennick

I am using the trip to reconnoiter for Interlude Tours trip to Canada in Sept 2011 and the Savages are also taking the opportunity to re-connect with many friends who live in Canada.
So to continue in brief mode -
After two nights staying with friends, Rod and Silvia Tindall in Whistler (John was best man at their wedding on top of Whistler mountain about 6 years ago), John and I embarked on the 82,305 ton ms. Zuiderham (Holland America Line) along with the Pennicks, the Tindalls and approx 1900 other passengers, many of them loud Aussies and 794 crew!

The Pennicks & Savages with our Captain QM2

Our cabin on QM2

Top deck QM2

Enjoying life!

Spacious cabin with balcony and full bathroom, really good meals and service but most of all fantastic scenery guaranteed an enjoyable and relaxing 7 day cruise from Vancouver to Juneau Alaska return. Cruise highlights- definitely cruising Glacier Bay National Park and the shore excursion -White Pass Summit Scenic Railway from Skagway and finding and savoring the world's best clam chowder in Ketchikan.

Rod, Silvia, Jeanette, Valerie, John & Richard

Glacier Bay

Best Clam Chowder in the world I say!

The Whitepass rail train & QM2

American Bald eagle in Alaska

Next, Savages and Pennicks set off in a hired SUV and took the car ferry to Vancouver Island and then another car ferry to Denman Isle north of Nainamo where we were the guests of Derek and Margaret Hood and treated like royalty for 3 nights. This island is remote, rural and beautiful. It is from here the majority of oysters are grown and exported from Canada.

The weather was not so kind during our stay on Denman Isle however it did not stop us from taking another car ferry to explore Hornby Island or hiking the long pebble beach to picnic on tiny Sandy island on the tip of Denman and accessible only boat or by foot at low tide as we did. John collected a backpack of oysters from the beach. Derek BBQ and shucked them. Nothing quite like a freshly shucked oyster complete with its little pool of delicious sea-juice, a squeeze of lemon and freshly ground pepper! Yummie. They were massive, succulent and free!

Picnic on the beach - Denman Island

In beautiful Vitoria, John and I said goodbye to the Pennicks until we rendezvous again on June 1. We took the scenic float plane flight back to Vancouver for two nights where the temperature was 15 degrees with light rain. During our stay, we enjoyed the energetic Stanley theatre musical production of the Buddy Holly story. Ticked another box and dinedat John’s favourite Italian restaurant Cin Cin with Canadian friends who travelled to Turkeywith us a few years ago. Always top food and service at this restaurant.

Feeding the seals on Fisherman's wharf, Victoria

Oh thank you!

Float plane

We flew out of rainy Vancouver to sunny and warm Montreal (26 degrees) just in time to bookinto our hotel in historic Old Montreal, shower and change ready to see Totem the latest production at cc. Totally magnificent. Montreal is the home of CDS.
I quickly realized how little time we had to explore this lovely city which is more French than Paris with wonderful fine dining and elegant boutiques.

Cirque Du Soleil, Montreal

John has been here many times, however our guided tour around the various & exciting neighbourhoods gave me a feel for the city, enough to know I want to revisit. Mount Royal where Montreal got its name, is a great parkland in the heart of the city. The Plateau Mont-Royal is the bohemian chic of the city while old world Little Italy is full of many cultures and restaurants. Bagels are big here. Gracious Old Montreal where we stayed has cobblestones rues and carriages mingled with boutique hotels and restaurants. A 'must have' is a freshly smoked meat (marinated for days in secret spices) served on rye bread with fries, pickle peppers and slaw at the legendary Schwartz’s no thrills Deli. Be prepared to line up outside and wait your turn. Turnover is brisk.

Schwartz’s deli

Smoked meat sandwich being prepared.
Caption on chef hat at back say - 'I am single'

Montreal is also where BIXI was conceived. BIXI allows cyclists to borrow and return a bike at one of the 300 stations across the city for a small fee. The concept has been sold to other cities across the world including Melbourne.

Presently the rail track is running beside the mighty Lawrence river. Certainly looks like no shortage of water here however handsome hunk has just told us that this area of Quebec is very dry and fighting fires.
We will be arriving in John's favourite city in the world - Quebec City in the next hour, so I'll sign off now and enjoy the view.

As usual, John is not in his booked seat; those of you who have travelled with him will understand this. He took no time at all to find and settle himself into the extra roomy exit aisle row on the train carriage and ordered his first for the day. The handsome hunk isnow his new best friend.

Au revoir

Jeanette 31.5.2010

Interlude in India - November 2009

2011-07-30T15:04:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,

Today our group of nine is in Udaipur and it is the eleventh day of our tour of India. This is my second trip to India in four months. I visited only South India on my first trip, which I’m sure I told you before, I found every bit as incredible as the tourist brochures brag. This time we started our tour in New Delhi - vastly different to the South in many ways. To begin with the north is more populated with both locals and tourists and jam-packed with astounding and magnificent historic sites, royal cities, colourful and rich cultures. As they are in the south, the Indian people are quick to welcome visitors with their brilliant warm smiles.

Dressed to visit Jam Masjid - India's largest mosque

A rickshaw ride along Wedding St.

Electrical cables in Old Delhi

Like most first-time tourist to India we followed the golden triangle trail which wanders from Delhi the capital of India, through Agra and Jaipur. Delhi is a city of fascinating contrasts with architectural relics of British colonialism and monuments dating back centuries past seven older cities that existed here. I particularly enjoyed our rickshaw ride through the narrow streets and laneways of Old Delhi. The ‘wedding street’, a narrow laneway lined with tiny shops displaying the brilliantly coloured and jeweled saris and other festive paraphernalia was mesmerizing. Most intriguing is how the mish-mashed muddle of overhead and hanging wires ever manages to provide electricity to this area.

Qutab Minar -70 meter high monument marks the site of the first Muslim Kingdom in Northern India

Typical Old Delhi street

Delhi is presently full of construction sites preparing for the Commonwealth games in Oct 2010. Will they be ready in time? That’s the big question here. Judging by the architectural feats of their ancestors, I certainly will not be a doubting Thomas.

On the train

Locals at the train station

Agra Fort build as a military structure and later a Palace

Inlay work on marble

We travelled from Delhi to Agra and from Bharatpur to Gangapur City by train. Not my first or my last experience of train travel in India but the last was certainly the most memorable. Why? I’ll tell you. Waiting on Bharatpur station we were as usual harassed by many beggars and touts . We handed out our fruit supplies to the beggars and then John sat down to have his shoes polished. As is John’s way, out came his ever faithful uke. Our group joined John singing Aussie songs and in no time at all had gathered a very large audience. I can’t tell you how touching it was to see the total delight and beaming smiles on the faces of those people as they swayed to the music. There could be nothing more uplifting in this life than to see a legless man on a trolley with a beaming smile joining in the singing and the poor dirty little kids dressed in rags looking so happy and wondrous as kids should. Nobody cared how out of tune we may have been, it just made their day and according to Ajay, (our guide) will probably be the highlight of their wretched lives. At least it was a respite from their seemingly miserable day of begging.

Agra has the imposing Red Fort and of course the memorial to immortal love, the Taj Mahal which no doubt contributes greatly to the reason this trail in the heart of India is often referred to as India’s ‘Jewel In the Crown’.

Taj Mahal

Watching the sun go down on Taj Mahal

Twenty six kms west of Agra is the red sandstone perfectly preserved deserted and amazing city of Fatehpur Sikri. This royal city believed to have been abandoned because of the lack of water was once the capital of the great Mughal Emperor ‘Akbar’. The buildings are blended with both Islamic and Hindu elements. Definitely not to be missed.

Fatehpur Sikri - The abandoned royal city

Inside our tent at Ramathra Fort

Tent on-suite. No bad eh?

View of Ramathra Fort

Ramathra Fort

We spent two nights camping in tents at Ramathra Fort. Don’t be misled – these were not ordinary old canvass tents by any means - more the luxury kind. The Fort has a family history going back eleven generations and after being abandoned for many years is presently undergoing a massive renovation and conversion into an exclusive resort. Led by the fort’s owner we thoroughly enjoyed a leisurely 2 ½ hour stroll through the nearby un-spoilt village and surrounds. Again we were greeted by smiles and excited children along with many bemused stares.

Cow pads used for fuel

School bus

Village family saying hello

From here we travelled to Rathambore National Park Tiger Reserve. Our magnificent hotel was once the Royal summer palace. Very royal indeed with the likes of Queen Elizabeth having stayed here before us.

Tiger

Thrills of thrills – during our two safaris through the park, one late afternoon and one early morning, every member of our group saw a tiger. It was so exciting and special to spot this elusive royal animal. Our group of five was accompanied by a very passionate Naturalist who rode shotgun on the jeep and pointed out the wildlife and birdlife in the park. He also happened to be the most handsome male specimen one could imagine with eyelashes to die for. As one of the three gals in our jeep remarked – ‘bugger the birds, I’ll just look at him’! “Ask me anything and I’ll try and satisfy you”, he said. WOW. Unbelievably handsome, 24 and single what more could an old gal ask for?

Our very handsome guide in the Tiger reserve

Beautiful bird life here too.

Onto the ‘Pink City’ – Jaipur, the third corner of the triangle. Jaipur is the capital city of Rajasthan state. It is a well planned vibrant and colourful city dating back to 1727. I had read much about the beauty of Amber Fort, the Palace of the Winds and the City Palace and they are truly amazing. I’m running out of descriptive adjectives for the sights of India but suffice to say they all apply. One of the great experiences was our visit to the astounding Observatory. If you come here do not miss this amazing place. Our bulging bags are proof that Jaipur is also a great shopping city.

Elephant ride at Amber Fort

Amber Fort

The palace of the Winds

At City Palace

Bargaining!

Our domestic flight from Jaipur to Udaipur on the private airline, Jet Airways, was excellent. The airports are spotless and extremely efficiently managed. Security is very tight. We have a longer flight tomorrow south to Kochi in Kerala.

Feteh Garh Hotel belongs to the Heritage Renaissance School of Heritage Renaissance.This mean the building has been laboriouslyt transplanted stone by stone, pillar by pillar from a heritage structure not far away

Our room at Fateh Garh

Our arrival in Udaipur coincided with an unfortunate turn in the weather. For two days it has been rather cool and showery. A real pity as we are staying in a rather new stunning hotel perched on a hilltop with a 270 degree view overlooking Udaipur city, said to be the most romantic city in Rajasthan. Gazing out my window now, I can only see haze. This dream hotel was constructed using local stone and antique architectural pieces culled from abandoned historic buildings. It is a picture perfect get-away. Have a look – www.fatehgarh.in . On our first morning here, John braved the elements to take a dive into the stunning infinity pool but even he has not ventured back. The weather has certainly not marred our sightseeing, shopping or dining!

At the tailors!

Preparing a delicious 14 course dinner in a simple kitchen with very few appliances.

Dinner is served

Last night we were graciously hosted in the home of a noble family with a cooking demonstration by the lady of the house followed by a delicious 14 course meal and much lively banter.

Ajay our wonderful guide

We have won the lottery with our accompanying ever obliging Indian guide, Ajay. His knowledge of India is staggering and with endless patience he completely comprehends and goes along with our wacky Aussie sense of humour.

Every coach driver we have had has been exceptional, particular on the very rough and rutted country roads avoiding people, dogs, cows, camels, trucks, tractors and every other type of vehicle and movable object imaginable. ‘Chicken’ is a most suitable description of the driving style here!

Our time in India has gone too quickly with only four days left on tour. The group is looking forward to visiting the beautiful south and hopefully better weather. We fly out of Kochi airport to Singapore on 18 November where all but two of the group will stay-over for 3 nights. More shopping no doubt!

Don’t believe the detractors who tell you India is a dangerous destination and you will get Delhi-belly. Of course, as is the case when travelling in many countries in the world, one needs to take care to drink only bottled water and select where to eat. Be brave, come and see for yourself, I’m certain you will not be disappointed. Bye for now.

Jeanette 15.11.2009

PS – Forgot to tell you I bought another carpet!!

Following is some of my favourite pics of interesting characters we met on this tour.........

Travelling sure is tiring!!!!

Famil to India Sept 2009

2011-07-29T10:04:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,
Today is day 10 of our 15 day famil of South India with 6 travel agents, an Australian escort and an entertaining Indian guide. The pace of the itinerary compared to many famils has been somewhat kind although this is really the first afternoon we have had 3 hours completely free. Most have chosen to nanny –nap, watch cricket on TV or read and here I am writing to lucky you.

Bay of Bengal -Mahabalipuram just south of Chennai

I am seated under a fan, at a desk in my room in a rather palatial family home on a sprawling rubber plantation. This beautiful property is set deep in the coffee and spice plantations of Keralan midlands on the hills of the Western Ghats. Our host (Alex) and hostess (Ann) are proud Syrian Catholics.

View of plantation from my bedroom window

This morning Alex walked us through their extensive spice garden and into the rubber plantation where we saw the rubber being tapped and processed then onto the logging forest to watch an elephant at work. I felt so sorry for the poor animal lifting and dragging huge logs with his mahout on his back barking orders continually. I’m sure he would rather be a temple Ganesh.

Rubber trees

Rubber wringer

Rubber

Elephant at work

Ann is a fabulous cook, we are so lucky to be sampling the unique and utterly delicious home-style traditional Kerala cuisine. Actually more than ‘sampling, we are being filled to pussy’s bow and then some!! The trick in India is not to eat everything that is served to you. If you do, regardless of protest, a more than generous fresh portion of everything magically materializes on one’s plate. Very difficult when one has been brought up to leave nothing!

Cooking class

We have had two cooking lessons with Ann – so be warned - for our next dinner party – Fish Mola may be on the menu! The cuisine throughout our days here has been varied and so tasty. Not nearly as chilli-hot as one would perhaps expect but spicy flavours to die for…..and we may do just that if we keep eating so much! Either that or we will roll off the plane in Australia like butter-balls.

Fish Mola

Our journey began on the East Coast in a spectacular resort at Mahabalipuram just south of Chennai (Madras) overlooking the Bay of Bengal where the temperature climbed to 35 degrees once or twice. First impression was the chaotic mix of vehicles, people and animals on the roads.

Note the sign on the truck - 'Sound Horn'

The incessant beeping of horns is disconcerting at first until one realizes they are not used with impatience or aggressiveness but merely a warning that ‘we are here and coming through’. In fact many vehicles have a ‘sound horn’ sign on the back. I am constantly amazed at how the countryside resembles Vietnam and Bali. English is spoken everywhere although the accents can be a little hard to construe sometimes. The other striking feature is colour, bright colour everywhere. Magnificent brilliant saris, buses and trucks with brightly painted decorations and many buildings and homes painted with what we would class as shocking pink, purple, orange, lime green etc.

Gorgeous ladies in colourful saris

Amazing fresh produce

Example of brightly painted house

Most trucks are decorated like this one

Although the homes and yards are kept very clean – even the dirt yards are continually swept, in the east and midlands it is common to see piles of rubbish along the roadside in villages and some cities.
There is no odour, probably because the cows and goats eat the food scraps but the curse is surely the plastic bags and bottles. The further west we go in the popular tourist area of Kerela the less we see of this., in fact none of it.

A goat enjoys the scraps

Wahing day

Making bricks

A quarter of India’s population live in South India and I’m sure between us we have taken a photo of most of them. Everywhere we have been, the children and women especially love getting in front of the camera particularly in the villages and markets. However unless we manage a candid shot, their brilliant smiles are replaced by a serious face and they almost stand to attention for the photo. Show them the screen on the digital camera and they are absolutely rapt and occasionally disappear with the camera to show their photo around. Few tourists come to some of the areas where we have travelled so we are a bit of a novelty and now very used to being stared at. We just smiled and always got a brilliant smile in response.

Carrying salt

Indians are happy people

Four generations visit a temple

From state to state in South India there is an extraordinary variation in terms of landscape, languages, culture and also people to some extent. It’s a slow, quiet and sweet way of life within communities with strong beliefs. Once we came to cross the Ghats many things changed. The landscape of course is now lush and green with lakes forests, tea estates and rubber plantations, the people in the streets still stare at us but are not quite so quick to smile.
On the whole, the genuine hospitality and friendliness of the people is astounding
.

The children love having their photo taken

It’s impossible to convey all we have seen - just so much and so varied.

A wonderful meal on a banana leaf to eaten with the fingers

I have almost mastered the art of eating a full meal served on a banana leaf with my fingers; I am resigned to the fact that I will never learn how to pronounce the names of Indian villages, towns etc; I am totally confused by the complex caste system, mainly because along the tract we have had several different versions from local guides; I am completely enthralled by the myths, mysteries and amazing history of South India, it’s as vibrant and quaint as the travel brochures suggest. We can see that education is highly valued here, particularly in Karela and that India is an absolute food-bowl. I’m not even going to attempt to list the masses of different food and spices grown but suffice to say that on this 50 acre property alone they grow rubber trees of course, grows rice, pineapple, cocoa, coconut, coffee plus dozens of spices and maintains a fruit orchard, vegetable and dairy farm which provides the fresh fruits, vegetables and milk.

Working in the field

Our stays have been in a fantastic range of accommodation from a 5 star coastal resort to historic French boutique hotel, a heritage family mansion and a wildlife sanctuary. Another remarkable stay and earth experience was at a Spice Village complex in the Periyar wilderness on the Western Ghats where absolutely everything is natural and the above all the surroundings are protected and nurtured. The cottages are modeled on the jungle dwellings of the local tribal inhabitants but far from primitive. The philosophy being that less is more, luxury lies in simplicity, reality is more enchanting than fantasy and magic lies in what you already have. Now as I said a palatial home on a rubber plantation.

My 5 star room in Kerela

Have we have visited temples? We sure have - big temples, little temples, world heritage temples, splendid temples and simple village temples and today just to add variety we visited a prominent Roman Catholic Church. Religion continues to play an important part in the daily life here. The beliefs and rituals, the Gods and the Cosmos are confusing. My head spins trying to recognize and understand Shiva, Vishnu and Ganesha etc. Depending on whom one choses to believe, Hinduism constitutes around 70% of the population, Muslims 20% and Christians 10%. Many Christians live in Kerela.

We went to the famous Aurobindo Ashram in the former French colony of Pondicherry and have visited artist’s workshops, handmade paper & tile factories, brick works, tailors markets, farmer’s markets, banana markets, we have seen many wondrous rock carvings and visited the Ghandi museum (fascinating).

Snake charmer

Banana market

Have ridden, washed and been showered by elephants, seen crocodiles, snakes, stunning birdlife but sadly tigers are becoming extinct and rarely sighted. Our 2 ½ hr train journey from Villuparam to Trichy was another interesting experience.

St Francis Church Cochin - oldest European church in India

St Marks RC Church

The Indian Virgin Mary

Our 2 ½ hr train journey from Villuparam to Trichy was another interesting experience.

Waiting for the train

On the train

Most people nap on the train

One visit worthy of note was to Auroville a town with over 1200 residents just north of Pondicherry . This town is an experiment in international living. Men, women and children live here in (supposed) perfect harmony with each other regardless of nationality, creeds and politics, symbolizing universal oneness. The residents are all involved in various specialized fields of work of their choice and are completely self- sustained. I must say we did have a delicious lunch in their restaurant.

I know I am going around in circles a little with this missive – forgive me. There is just too much to relate and I am trying to condense it whilst telling you as much as possible in a very short space.

North India offers the well-known attractions such as the Taj Mahal. The route we have followed on this trip is a perfect ‘second visit’ or supplementary itinerary to visit India. It has been a very gentle and fascinating introduction to South India and the authentic lifestyle of the communities.

A road stall making Chai

Chai - served everywhere & I loved it.

I have taken many photos, so look forward to your invitation to the slide night!!!!

One of my favourite photos. Happy people at work carrying salt

Keep safe,
Cheers, Jeanette 13.9.2009

Final from NZ March 2009

2011-07-28T14:17:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,

This is my final missive re: NZ.
We said goodbye to the beautiful South Island last Wednesday and flew into Auckland where we were met at the airport by our friends, Valerie and Richard Pennick. Two hours later we were in their holiday villa in the east coast town of Whangamata on the Coromandel Peninsula.

For two days, in perfect weather we leisurely toured some of this stunning area by car and walked the pristine beaches and through the nature parks along the Pacific coastline. John was in his element as just a short walk across a park outside the Pennick’s garden is a great beach with white sand, so he and Richard both enjoyed twice-daily ocean swims.

Beach at Whangamata

The normally sleepy settlement of Whangamata was hosting the annual ‘beach-hop’ adding much fun to our stay. The ‘beach-hop is a 60’s rock ‘n roll gathering which attracts acres of chrome - an amazing collection of American cars, bikes, pick-ups and other odd vehicles mainly from the 60’s era. All shapes, all colours, all types, all in top condition and all very much loved and expertly preened by their proud owners, these wonderful vehicles and many thousands of people descend on and are welcomed into the small coastal town for a few days.

This year the organisers set a limit of entry registrations to 800 vehicles but many more just turn up. Not sure if these people simply love cars or is it nostalgia for a bygone era when things seemed so much more simple that brings them here. They parade up and down the main streets of the town and in convey go to other coastal towns for beach parties and BBQ’s with rock ‘n roll bands (three bands from Australia). There was even a drive-in-movie night – how 60’s is that! From the villa balcony we overlooked the incredible motor line up and witnessed the camaraderie, and excitement of this eclectic group of motor fanatics (many dressed in fab 60’s gear) as they drooled over, under and inside each vehicle. Great fun and well organised.

Back to the South Island from where I left off the last email from Queenstown. Following our frustrating arrival in Queenstown which I wrote you about, all went smoothly. We did take the scenic cruise on the TSS Earnslaw, the vintage steamship on Lake Wakatipu. Nothing like the QM2!

Elegant steamship TSS Earnslaw

The engine room TSS Earnslaw

It was like stepping back in time watching the stokers shovel coal into the fireboxes below deck, the graceful ‘ladies saloon’ and old world café. Known as “The Lady of the Lake” this elegant steamship was launched in 1912 and is the last surviving steamship on the Lake. It makes several trips daily to the Walter Peak High Country Farm. This working property with a magnificent stately homestead set in extensive gardens welcomes visitors to experience NZ farming lifestyle. Tourists can watch the farm dogs rounding up the sheep, see a sheep shorn, ride a horse and try spinning wool and have a homemade scones and pikelets – for a price of course.

Queenstown is a centre for adventure sports and attracts loads of backpackers from all over the world and campervans particularly “Wicked” vans by the dozen. Venturing out to the historic Kawarau bridge where the sport of bungy jumping was conceived, we watched many excited and brave tourists taking the headfirst plunge 44 metres to the crystal blue river water as we reminisced about our own bungy experience in Rotorua in1992. Consensus was that we were younger, braver or more perhaps just more stupid in that decade!

Historic Kawarau bridge

Bungy jumping

There is plenty to do in Queenstown even if you do not participate in the adventure sports, one can always watch. There are some lovely walks along the lake. The 800 metre Skyline gondola was worth it for a spectacular view of the city, the Remarkables and Lake Wakatipu.

Lake Wakatipu

We watched ledge or swing bungy and kids of all ages having fun hurtling down the very fast winding Skyline Luge. We dined in some lovely restaurants and also had Fush ‘n Chups at the popular Lakeside Kiosk.

Leaving Queenstown, we leisurely worked our way north along the inland scenic route through the most beautiful undulating countryside that resembles a massive patchwork quilt in every hue of green to Christchurch. Alone the way we visited historic Cromwell town, Mt Cook National Park and stayed at Lake Tekapo. All very lovely.

Our final stay was Auckland. I spent some time just ambling in the brilliant sunshine in the grounds of Albert Park admiring the magnificent old trees and brightly coloured gardens. John went to see the match between the Waratahs and Blues. He was happy as he backed the Waratahs.

Garden in Albert Park

What a great country for a meandering holiday; so beautiful, diverse, compact and welcoming with an enviable effortless lifestyle. Can’t wait to go back, perhaps in a campervan next time!

Great roads & stunning scenery

Although NZ has the reputation of being slow and ‘country-like’, it is certainly progressive where tourism and fashion is concerned. Every opportunity is taken to attract tourists of all ages resulting in regional money-spinners. Right now, a cycle tract end to end of NZ is seriously being considered. I guess this proposal is based on the success of the 150km purpose-made cycle trail along the disused railroad line from Palmerston to Alexander that attracts many international and national tourists. Stats are interesting and obviously an incentive to proceed with the project. Cyclists stay an average of 49.2 nights, twice the average and spend 1.6 times as much as other tourists. The added benefit is the boom to the towns along the track which died when the rail closed but have been reborn to cater for the needs of the cyclist, B & B’s campsites, cafes, banks, supermarkets etc.
Yep certainly want to return. Could happily live there but right now it's back to the grindstone.!

Cheers
Jeanette 1.4.2009

NZ March 2009 private trip -first email.

2011-07-28T13:44:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,
The south island of The Land of the Long White Cloud is more amazingly beautiful than I remember from my last visit about 1967 when I lived in NZ for a short time.

We flew into Christchurch on Emirates and stayed in the Grand Chancellor Hotel in the centre of the city where the hotel’s claim to fame is that with 20 stories it is the tallest building in Christchurch. Reviews told us to expect a hotel with tired furnishings catering to large groups so this hotel wasn’t our first choice, however we were pleasantly surprised. The reception staff were welcoming and friendly and the Concierge first-rate. Our room on the 18th floor was spacious, clean and very comfortable with a pleasant outlook. At least two Japanese groups were staying at the hotel but with 3 super fast lifts available and a large reception area they were no bother at all. On our last night we went against our usual policy of not eating in our hotel restaurant and what a surprise -pleasant ambience, fantastic English bangers with fluffy mash, minted baby peas and rich onion gravy. Delicious/Scrumptious/Yummy! I’m salivating just thinking about it.
Of course we have sampled various NZ baby lamb dishes that understandably are the popular fare offered on almost every restaurant menu here. I must be hungry writing so much about food, but before I move on, must mention the taste sensation we discovered last evening in a Thai restaurant in Wanaka – Red Curry Salmon. Wow. Although we hesitated ordering this dish, the large chunks of salmon blended beautifully with the medium red curry sauce. Food is somewhat expensive here. I’m told the North Island is less so. We will see. No more food talk!!

Christchurch Cathedral & Tram

For a city, Christchurch was deserted but livened up somewhat on our second night when the Irish and others came out to celebrate St Patricks’ day. Joining in the festivities at Baillie’s Pub we watched a great performance of Irish dancing by the Irish Dancing School followed by a not-so-great sort of Irish dancing by the pub patrons. The hop-on-hop-off beautifully restored tram with commentary is a joyful way to get around the city centre and see the lovely heritage buildings, old-world shopping streets and visit the various art galleries and numerous cafés. The Christchurch Cathedral in the square in the heart of the city is an impressive building with a gift shop and café. Loitering on the sunny Cathedral Square watching the giant chess games and listening to the crazy spruikers on soapboxes is a fun pastime as is meandering along the manicured banks of the Avon River watching the authentic Edwardian punter take his passengers peacefully down the Avon. Like stepping back 100 years, so delightful.

Our four and a half hour, 231 km trip from Christchurch to Greymouth on the TranzAlpine, rated as one of the great train journeys of the world, began in thick fog. Luckily the fog lifted quickly to let the sun shine through as we crossed the Canterbury Plains and climbed the alpine foothills to reach 737 metre high Arthur’s Pass surrounded by snow-capped mountains.

Then down through the Otira Tunnel through rainforest and lakes to be greeted by rain in Greymouth. This mining town on the shores of the Tasman Sea is very well named….awfully grey and drab, no change in 40 years. Not to worry, our rental car was waiting and off we sped north on the scenic coastal road to Punakaiki to see the incredible pancake rocks and blowhole.

Pancake Rocks

Franz Josef glazier

Heading south again, we left the rain behind to overnight in Franz Josef where we had (NB: I no longer ‘celebrate’) my birthday dinner at a lovely restaurant where (dare I mention food again), I had NZ lamb cutlets followed by cheese cake with 1 candle!
Today began precariously (not sure that is the right word but it will do). Down to rental car – battery flat! (Any lights left on? – Absolutely not says John!) While the new battery was being fitted, John tossed the local barber double or nothing for a hair cut – you guessed it, the barber won! He (the barber that is) was a very happy chappie and has probably discovered a new marketing gambit for his barbershop. John verbally lamented the toss all the way to Cardrona. (i.e. whinged). Oh how I wished Sydney, the 20-year-old Canadian hitchhiker we had on board from Franz Josef to Wanaka was still with us to share his bleats (fitting word for NZ!).

Thank goodness Devonshire tea in the stunning grounds of the delightful Cardrona Hotel, one of NZ’s oldest hotels, est. 1863, brightened his day. A picnic lunch and wander through the quaint old gold rush town of Arrowtown came next. The movie trigily, Lord of The Rings was filmed around this town. The scenery on the drive today has been nothing short of spectacular. Queenstown is postcard picture perfect and lively. That means more than 50 people! Our hotel room overlooks Lake Watatipu back-dropped by the Remarkables (mountains). Just when all happy, John’s day became shaky again - paid $12 to connect to the internet -it is not working, the phone is out of order (the maintenance man gone home), can’t watch the local rugby game on TV unless he subscribes and to top it all off – NO ICE FOR THE G & T!!!! Can only get better! I just spied the steamship TSS Earnslaw on the lake. It looks great– shall put it on our list of must-do’s tomorrow which no doubt will be a wonderful day in paradise! Going for a big fat sizzling NZ steak in a pub with a big screen so all will be good - that is if the right team wins and JS doesn’t lose his bet!!!

Where to start!

Stay well and happy,
Jeanette 21.3.2009

European Spring Interlude October 2008

2011-07-26T20:11:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,
It is twenty days since our group of 16 flew into Paris to be greeted with cold miserably drizzling weather. Luckily this weather only lasted two days and since then we have been blessed with beautiful sunny days and temperatures mainly in the low twenties- perfect for travelling and sightseeing.
Today we arrived in enchanting Verona following four nights in a magnificent 15th century Villa nestled in Tuscan hills. The couple who run the villa (Kirsten and Frederick) could not have been more hospitable. Check it out – www.villarigacci.it . I can thoroughly recommend this great find which is well situated, not too far from Florence or Siena and surrounded by pines and olive groves. It even has its own little chapel complete with confessional. Could be handy!! We took the train to Florence one day and drove into Siena for a walking tour of that historic city on another. On our last day there, we leisurely meandered around the hilltop villages of central Tuscany and feasted on delicious pork rolls in Pienza; - some of you will no doubt remember these scrumptious delights but this time we bought a bottle of apple sauce to top off the treat!

Autumn in France

How very lucky we were to catch the stunning autumn colours in France at their very best, particularly around the craggy gorge where we stayed in the ancient cliff-hanger village of Rocamadour and in the magnificent Gorges du tarn in the Midi-Pyrénées.

Looking down on Rocamadour

Rocamadour

A major attraction in the Midi-Pyrénées is the Millau Bridge or Viaduct. After stopping at the panoramic viewing point and information centre where we could see the structure and valley, we drove across this exceptional bridge in the heart of France. According to the data ‘the Viaduct spans a total distance of 2460m over the Tarn River and holds the world record as the tallest bridge with its highest pylon towering 343m above the valley’. It is indeed an elegant and sleek work of art that has not only shortened the route from Paris to the Mediterranean coast but has made it more cost effective. For those interested in engineering feats you simply must Google Millau Bridge.

Driving the Millau Bridge

Gorges du tarn

The Cinque Terre, Portofino are always exciting places to visit. This visit Portofino was hosting a Fiat Car rally. Quite a bonus for the rev-heads on the tour.

Interlude staff relaxing in a Chinque Terre village

Cinque Terre Village

We had two full days to relax in the beautiful and elegant Bellagio on Lake Como. Our hotel on the lakefront had supurb views. Cobbled streets, impeccable homes and glorious villas add to the enchantment of the elegant lakeside town.

Hotel Metropole Bellagio

A Villa on Lake Como

Taking a spin on Lake Como

Our visit to the Peugeot and Citroen plant in Poissy (about 35 km out of Paris) held a couple of surprises. Firstly, this plant only manufactures to order and I would estimate that production is running at about half the normal rate, if not less; a sign of the world economic state according to our gracious French escort Patrick. Indeed a bit of a jolt. For me the other surprise was just how many massive mechanical robots have replaced humans on the production line since my last visit. When asked about this, Patrick claimed ‘not many people were put off because of the robots’ however he would not reveal just how many ‘not many’ is! Still, the Paris Motor Show did not show signs of economic stress displaying amazing prototypes and expensive motors in huge exhibition halls with plenty of glitz and razzamatazz, delighting the hordes of motor enthusiasts who happily paid the 12 Euro entrance fee (approx $24 AUS) Tomorrow is a free day. Yippee! Most of the group is going to Venice by fast train.
The weather forecast remains in our favour. Of course now we are heading north so expecting cooler days particularly in Swiss Alps.

On arrival in Launterbrunnen

Same view the next morning

Everything is just soooooooo expensive over here and everyone is trying to ignore the economic doom & gloom. We figure there is nothing we can do about it so enjoy spending the money we probably no longer have! Anyway we hear that Kevin 747 is fixing everything back home and for the world, so why worry?
Until next time, keep smiling, Jeanette 25.10 2008

Yipeedoo from Turkey

2011-07-25T18:43:00.000+10:00

Yipeedoo - a free hotel internet with an English keyboard!!! A traveller’s idea of heaven!!!
Hi Everyone

After many hugs, goodbyes and promises to 'keep in touch' to cement friendships made on the road, the travellers on our Interlude in Turkey Tour 2008 yesterday dispersed to different destinations from Istanbul airport. With official tour escorting duties over, I have five days to relax in my spacious suite (yep upgraded) in the Spina hotel situated in the beautiful old Sultanahmet district of Istanbul.

From the hotel rooftop terrace it is almost possible to reach out and touch one of the six minarets of the Blue Mosque with one hand and the dome of the Sophia Haghia with the other at the same time overlooking the site of the ancient Hippodrome where chariots raced in Byzantine times. Today the square is the centre of cultural, historical and touristic activities. It is like being in the middle of an open air museum surrounded by delightfully restored 18th century houses with a view of the three remaining historic monuments, the Obelisk of Theodosius, the bronze Serpentine Column and the Column of Constantine. On the other side of the terrace is a commanding view of the stunning and all important Bosphorus.

Since I last emailed from our fabulous gullet while cruising on the Agean Sea, we have experienced a variety of adventures and explored many breathtaking and scenic areas of this diverse and beautiful country.

Ancient Tlos

View from Tlos

Included in the many highlights was our exploration of the amazing Lycian, Byzantine and Ottoman ruins and home of the winged horse Pegasus at the ancient city of Tlos and Olympos, another Lycian Lycian city with a great beach and pirate’s cove. Most of the beaches here are pebble beaches so my ungainly red Crocs have been a Godsend and have had lots of use. The Mediterranean water is absolutely magic, so sparkling clear and stunning colours.

Resting in the ruins

One of my favourite and a truly breathtaking excursion on this trip was to the natural wonder of the Saklikent Canyon or Gorge, about 50 KM from Fethiye. This canyon is 300 meters deep and 18 km long and was created by the rushing torrents of icy cold water which cut a narrow gorge through the mountains over thousands of years. The walls are so high that they cut out most of the sunlight and it is fun to hitch up ones trousers, skirts or whatever and wade carefully over the rocks and pebbles (Crocs to the rescue again) through the bracing fresh spring water. Little local kids are only too keen to grab your hands and 'help' you along. It appears that 'no thank you' translates to 'OK' and in their eagerness and with their sights set on a healthy tip, they tend to unbalance rather than assist the unfortunate tourist! This canyon reminded me a lot of the entrance to Petra but of course Petra does not have the water and is more colourful.

Saklikent Canyon

Wading through the canyon

We stayed in and wandered the streets of the picturesque old centre (Kaleici) in Antalya where the Emperor Hadrian visited in 130AD and the decorated three arched gate erected to commemorate his visit still stands. Enjoyed a hamam here again. Same place and same masseur as my last visit in 2006! Hamams (public bath houses) have a long history and are in old magnificent buildings with arches and columns. You sit or lie on marble slabs in the very humid room called harara (heated to 40-50 degrees Celsius) for about 20 minutes to open the pores and then your body is subjected to scrubbing with a coarse mitt to rub off the dead layer of skin followed by a frothy soapy scrub while you are slipping and sliding around on a marble slab. Then something resembling a tablecloth is wrapped around you like a sarong and you are sent to a waiting room to relax with a glass of apple tea followed by a full body oil massage. Absolute bliss! All for about $30 AUD. Not recommended for those who are self-conscious about being naked in front of either sex.

Perge

Onto more serious historic stuff - We visited Perge, the city settled by the Hittites around 1500BC which is fascinating as the ruins of the Roman city provide a very complete picture of the past, so it is easy to imagine this city in its glory days - the wide colonnaded street that most likely served as a gathering place for the inhabitants bordered by shops on both sides with a water canal lying in the middle of the street used for the purpose of cooling the atmosphere, the pre Roman gateway and walls were built in the 2nd century A.D, the agora (market place),the well conserved stadium or arena built in the 2nd century with seating for at least 12000 spectators and 30 rooms under the rows of seats used for admittance as well as shops; the marble bath complex is absolutely amazing since marble was not available in Perge and had to be shipped from Marmara across the Marmara Sea! Like many other historic sites in Turkey, restoration at Perge is slowly progressing. I could see a difference since my visit in 2006.

Aspendos amphitheatre

Aspendos is another marvel we visited being one of the best preserved amphitheatres in the world with astounding acoustics and seating for 15000, it is still used today.

I think it if fair to say that after all the above and more, most of the group was 'ruined out', so a complete change of scenery was timely and Cappadocia was the perfect spot. The unique landscape of this designated national park in the centre of Turkey which was formed as a result of two very ancient volcanic eruptions has to be seen to be believed. It is no surprise that come Star Wars films were shot here.

Our beautiful cave hotel

Cappadocia means 'the land of beautiful horses'. I wish I could describe the landscape which is riddled with gorges, ravines, spectacular valleys and fairy chimneys and tall irregular shaped rock pillars. Small towns and cave villages are nestled between the valleys. The rocks were formed from the volcanic ash so they are soft and porous making it is relatively easy to carve into and create homes, shops and hotels of weird shapes, many are quite luxurious and ever so interesting. On this trip we stayed in some lovely boutique hotels run by interesting people but the gorgeous boutique cave-hotel with all mod cons in Göreme was a special treat.

Our fantastic guide and driver

Another real treat was our spectacular early morning hot air balloon flight over Cappadocia. What a way to see this remarkable and awesome area. Our pilot thrilled everyone in the basket by dropping the balloon into various valleys and daring his passengers to lean out and pick apricots off the trees and skimming close to crops. He had everyone holding their breath and the side of the basket tightly before roaring the burners for the hot air needed to rise out of the valleys to hover over the village so we could see our cave-hotel. The landing was perfect with the basket coming to rest directly on the support vehicles tray, followed by the inevitable group photo session then the regulation champagne spray and toast.

Firing up our balloon

Ready for take-off

Celebrating a safe landing

I'm sure you know that Cappadocia has around 30 or so underground cities some nine stories deep which have been uncovered and many excavated. Only a few are open to the public whilst many of the other caves are now used as cool storage depots for produce such as lemons, grapes and potatoes which keep dry and fresh for months. We visited the largest of the open cities called Kaymakli believed to be dug out by the Hittites in 1200BC. Those Hittites were sure a busy bunch! It is thought over 5000 people lived in Kaymakli.

Entrance to Kaymakli

Kaymakli Communal toilet

The entire community lived in hiding from invaders, the entry blocked by a massive stone door. We explored four levels of an elaborate maze of tunnels and rooms such as living, dining areas, churches, nursery, wine cellar and the large communal kitchen, latrines and stables. One has to bend over to pass through passages in many places but it is not at all claustrophobic due to the sophisticated 45 metre ventilation shaft.

Now very soft electric lighting is dotted throughout the city and one can only imagine how the Hittites managed with cloth dipped in oils and lit. We wondered what the electrician said when asked to quote for the job to install the wires and connect the electricity to this city - something like 'you want what????' Surprisingly this is a rich agricultural area with many vineyards and local wineries. There is a beautiful big valley called 'The Pigeon valley' which indeed has many pigeons nesting. Their droppings are collected and used to fertiliser the volcanic soil.

The Pigeon valley

A few of us paid about $45 to go and see the Whirling Dervishes ceremony which lasts about 1 1/2 hours. The fascinating Whirling Dervishes trace their origin to the 13th century Ottoman Empire. The order of the Dervishes are a branch of the large Sufis spiritual offshoot tradition of Islam which focuses on love, tolerance, worship of God, community development and personal development through self-discipline. The whirling dance is a seven century old ritual and one of the physical methods they use to try to reach religious ecstasy. The ceremony was really a bit of a mystery to me. Six men seem to go into a trance and begin twirling to the somber Sufi music and they twirl and twirl and twirl- all at the same not-too-fast pace. Apparently the effect is intended to be mesmerizing and it was - I have to confess I was so mesmerized that I nodded off several times (along with many others I might add) and each time I awoke those little Dervishes were still twirling! Tick-seen that - or at least some of it!

Whirling Dervishes figurines

In total contrast to our night of the Whirling Dervishes, the next and last night off our tour our group thoroughly enjoyed a special Turkish night being entertained during dinner by a spectacular very bright and lively floorshow of belly dancers and an Anatolian Cultural Folklore group. That was a really great show.

Turkey has again proved to be a wonderful and safe destination to visit. Apart from the varied and spectacular scenery, the stunning coastline, historic and ancient ruins and fascinating culture, the Turkish cuisine is delicious - so varied, healthy and fresh and the Turks are friendly and welcoming.

Turkey has wonderful water and lots of it. For me there are other plusses here too; like having a traditional hamam. I love hearing the Muezzins singing their call to prayer from the minarets of the Mosques five times a day. I love the fact that the shopkeepers can leave their wares outside the shops overnight without fear of them being nicked. I love seeing the children laughing and playing skippy, hopscotch and ball in the streets (revives sweet childhood memories) and the grown-ups playing board games outside their homes and shops. I love seeing families out walking together in the evenings. I love haggling in the bazaars and the friendly banter with the carpet merchants as they try to entice you to step inside their shops where the carpets are 'a special price just for me.' It is a gentle community way of life here that many in our country I'm sure would envy.

Enough for now.
Cheers to all and Up the mighty Swannies
Jeanette 20.6.2008

An Interlude In Turkey 2008

2011-07-25T13:45:00.002+10:00

Hi Everyone, Close your eyes and imagine: - brilliant sunshine and dropping into the sparkling sapphire coloured waters in a sheltered inlet in the Agean Sea. That's what I'm doing along with 12 other lucky people. Just bobbing around in the buoyant clear water and gazing back at a beautiful 39 meter motor-sailer - our home for 3 nights - and what a home!

Chestnut exterior and polished mahogany interior, surprisingly spacious cabins with ensuites, scrumptious meals and obliging crew of 5 to cater to our every whim! The only disappointment for some (not me) is that the impressive mast/sailing equipment is only for show!

Our cabin

Today is day 10 of our 21 day tour of Turkey and a timely down-day to relax and do whatever takes ones fancy -swimming, reading, sunbaking etc. We began this tour in Istanbul staying in the wonderful old Sultanahemet area very near the famous Blue Mosque with six minarets built between 1609 and 1616 and so called because of the magnificent interior of panels of blue and white tiles.

Along with our English speaking Turkish guide Fatih (pronounced Fartie which causes some mirth), we did as all tourists do here. We cruised the fantastic Bosphorus, the winding strait that separates Asia and Europe and marvelled at the mixture of past and present; ultra modern hotels, the beautiful old shore-front wooden villas, marble palaces and stone fortresses. We visited the Basilica of Hagia built by Constantine the Great with its Byzantine mosaics and an impressive dome said to be the widest and highest in the world.

Everyone loves the aroma of the Spice Market where every conceivable herb and spice is available along with Turkish delight to die for! Then there is the lively old Grand Bazaar where it seems everything can be purchased including Turkish crafts, brilliant hand painted ceramics, leather goods, copperware, silverware and of course carpets of every colour, size and texture. In contrast to the Bazaars are the streets of sophisticated shops in the Taksim district offering the latest fashion labels and elegant accessories with very 'elegant' price tags! Eight of our group took a 2 day mini tour to Gallipoli/Troy. The others had no trouble enjoying the two days in Istanbul. Along with a handful of other Aussies and Kiwis we gathered at the Amison hotel (an English pub) and watched the Waratahs get a hiding from Crusaders in the final of the super 14's. The Aussies we met there recommended a fantastic restaurant an Taksim called Lebi derya. What a fınd; on the 6th floor of the Richmond Hotel with not only a splendid view overlooking the Bosphorus but delicious food at reasonable prices. Wine and beer were expensive but worth it. Try it when you visit Istanbul, I promise you will not be disappointed.

From Istanbul we flew to Izmir where we were met by our driver and bus for the rest of the tour. We began by visiting the house of the Virgin Mary - (a small stone church really) nestled in wonderful gardens. Onto Ephesus, the well preserved classical Roman city where the famous Temple of Hadrian and the Library of Celsus are along with amphitheatre, fountains baths etc. Wonderful work is being done to restore these and most of the other important ruin sites in Turkey.

Our group at Epheses

House of the Virgin Mary

Next stop Bodrum and the 15th century Bodrum Castle built by the Crusaders and housing one of the world's largest Underwater Archaeological Museum. In Marmaris where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Agean Sea we boarded our magnificent gullet. Yesterday we had an excursion in a small river boat down the narrow reed-lined waterways to the gorgeous little village of Daylan. We saw the Turtle beach with its white sand where the Caretta Turtles still lay their eggs. Near here our group caught their first glimpse of the amazing Lycian rock tombs. Along with three others, I had a roll around in the famous warm mud bath. I can tell you it is only a myth that the mud bath makes one 10 years younger. However it was great fun and certainly made ones skin come alive.

Enjoying a mud bath

Lycian tomb

That's about it for now. Weather is perfect right now and we hope it doesn't get any hotter. The Turkish key-board has not changed in the last 2 years so I hope this comes to you in readable text. Cheers to all, Jeanette 8.6.2008

Morocco tour 2007

2007-05-15T12:08:00.000+10:00

Hi Everyone,
I'm in a very stuffy cyber cafe with one crazy European keyboard so I apologise for the mistakes sure to be in this email.
It is two years since I last toured Morocco and there has been some changes in that time but thankfully a lot of the traditional ways of life remain as they have for centuries. Improvements can be seen in the roadways and housing development with impressive large villas exploding on the outskirts of the old cities. Architecture is now open windows and balconies, distinctly different to the enormous walls and closed doors of the streets of the ancient Medinas. Some restoration and preservation of superb old buildings is evident but sadly there is a long way to go. Most notable is the change in the lifestyle of the women.
Morocco is a Kingdom. The present King is in his early forties, married with two young children. He was educated in France and is very popular as he gets out and about amongst his people. 60% of the population of Morocco are aged under 40 so it seems they identify with him and welcome his progressive ideas and changes to the laws of the country. Women now have a voice and can seek a divorce, they can say 'no' to the man chosen as a husband by their family. Men are now allowed one wife only.
The film industry is booming particularly around the modern central town of Quarzazate (pronounced 'what is zat') We stayed in the same hotel as the cast of The Gladiator so I well may have slept in the same bed as our own Russell!

This is a country of surprising diversity. It is colourful and bustling and yet the Moroccan men seem to spend a good part of their day happily just sitting or lying around drinking massive amount of coffee or mint tea. Women on the other hand are busy doing the work. In the countryside the nomadic Berber lifestyle is slow and very simple with a great sense of community with happy children playing in the fields and along the roadside.

Fishermen & Fort at Essaouira

We have a happy small group of ten persons traveling in an eighteen seat Mercedes bus with a extremely competent driver and a excellent local guide. Right now we are staying in the small 16th century fortified fishing port of Essaouira on the Atlantic coast. Occupied by the Portuguese until the 18th century, Essaouira has an amazing mixture of Berber and Portuguese military architecture, blue and white buildings and a wonderful Medina and market place which was once a slave market plentiful fresh fish and seafood of all types which one can select the catch of choice and have it cooked on the spot, plus one very crappy cyber cafe!,

In the past 14 days we have had many fantastic and varied experiences. The highlight for me was our night spent in a Berber camp nestled in the serene sand-dunes of the Sahara.

Camel riding over the majestic Sahara

After an hours camel ride to top of a high dune we sat quietly and watched the sunset. The playful camel guides (Berber 'blue men') ignited the child in every one of us holding our ankles and sliding us down the side of the massive dune to our patiently waiting camels. What fun and what a surprise when we finally reached our camp to find a circle of tents erected especially for our group on brightly coloured Berber mats, hot showers, comfortable mattresses with clean linen.

Our Berber camp at sunrise
Five musicians to entertain us plus delicious food and a very well stocked bar! I could not think of a better way to spend our 35th wedding anniversary. Our wonderful guide produced a bottle of French champagne and John sang a love-song he had written for me and the occasion. The girls in the group all had a cry. After much merriment our group declined the invitation to be woken at 5am to watch the sunrise. Luckily I woke early to discover it was not too cold. I wandered barefoot outside the camp, up the dunes and marveled in solitary bliss at the most magnificent sunrise over the dunes of the Sahara desert.
Twice our group has been herded into carpet emporiums and twice the merchants who would put our used car salesmen to shame have managed to part with a couple of carpets at 'a gift of a price'! My Amex account may not agree, - yes guilty again, another wonderful handmade Moroccan rug of all colours and textures for our home.
After attending two cooking classes, you could well be treated to a delicious and flavour-some Moroccan dinner party at Chez Savage. One class was in a remote Kasbah on the fringe of the Sahara desert and the other just 20 miles outside Marrakech in a gazebo kitchen in the middle of the fragrant herb and vegetable garden of a restored Kasbah and member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World.

Prepared vegie tajine, tajines cooking and our orange dessert.

We cooked with views across Berber villages, the Atlas mountains and olive grove plantations.

Herbal foot spa & Massage - Heaven! Inspecting the vegie & Herb garden
Whilst the tajines were cooking we sipped local Rose and luxuriated in individual herbal foot-spas followed by a foot massage. Heaven! Then lunched on our culinary masterpieces - a delicious vegetable tajine and a chicken and preserved lemon tajine.

Jealous yet? No, then let me tell you about the beaming smiles on the faces of the children when we give them coloured pencils, crayons, notebooks, balloons or sweets; the women in colourful jellabas washing clothes in the streams and gossiping; the town of 'one eyed women' where the women are dressed completely in black with only one eye showing; our scenic drive to a gorgeous Berber village following by a mule ride to lunch in a restored fortress or Kasbah with 360 degree views of the Atlas mountains and surrounding valleys; the breathtaking Toudra Valley and gorges - not unlike Petra in Jordan; the drive from Quarzazate to Marrakech over the Tichler pass of the high Atlas mountains with stunning landscapes of light and colours of pink Moroccan hues thanks to the different minerals, soil and rocks; the beautiful new forests planted to stop erosion and the cultivated grasslands for grazing; sunset in the famous Djemaa le Fra square in Marrakech with it's smoking food-stalls, dancers, boxing bouts and snake charmers; following our guide through the car free winding alleys which twist into lane-ways whilst dodging the laden mules and donkeys in the mystical Medina in Fez; the fruit and vegetable souks jam-packed with brilliantly displayed olives or every kind, huge bunches of mint, preserved fruits and nuts and the aroma of fresh spices and freshly squeezed orange juice; haggling for goodies in the souks; the tactile happy Moroccans openly greeting each other with genuine hugs and kisses on both cheeks; our increasing waist-lines - testament to the Moroccan hospitality to ensure no visitor goes hungry - food, food and more delicious food.

Djemaa el Fna Square at sundown.

I could go on and on. If you have already visited this stunning country maybe I have revived memories. If you are still to come here I hope I have painted an enticing glimpse of this vibrant, diverse and safe Kingdom. One tip is to get a good guide. We have been blessed with our guide who invited us to his home in Marrakech. A palatial villa on a hectare of manicured gardens complete with swimming pool, self contained garden cottage, rose garden, an English dress-designer wife, one son and two spoilt dogs.

Our guide Abdul's home in Marrakech
One of our group suggested our guide should be tipping us - not the other way around!

Only a few days left before we board our Emirates flight to stopover in Dubai and then home around May 12. Look forward to seeing you soon.
Jeanette - 6 May 2007

Emails from China, Vietnam & Cambodia

2006-11-04T13:15:00.000+11:00

Hi Everyone,
After an all too quick six day turn-around in Sydney, I flew into China on 9 Oct to escort a small group on our Icons of China, Vietnam and Cambodian Interlude tour.
First stop - Shanghai. It is 3-4 years since I was last in Shanghai and if possible the city is more virbant than ever. High-rise buildings have popped up like mushrooms. The colourful night lights around the Bund are truly dazzling. Nanjing Rd - China's # 1 street shopping as is still buzzing and the old men's jazz band at the Piece Hotel continues to play all the old favourites. The city is 'alive' and already preparing to sponsor Expo in 2010.
Jimmy, our excellent city guide was proud to show off the highlights of his city and there are many, both modern and traditional. A favourite is the wonderful 400 yr old classical Yu Garden with two hectares of ponds, rockeries, fabulous plants and traditional pavilions - the four elements of a Chinese garden - water, buildings, rocks and plants. Designed and constructed by a son for his parents pleasure and happiness, this tranquil garden took 15 years to complete and was originally much larger.
From traditional to modern - the super-speed elevator up 88 floors in 45 seconds to the observation deck of the Jin Mao Tower. You can imagine the spectacular view of metropolitan Shanghai plus one can look down inside and view the circular atrium of the Grand Hyatt Hotel.

Back to tradition - A tea ceremony in an elegant Tea House where I discovered it is Jasmine Tea I should have been drinking all these years to help sleep, no wonder the green Tea didn't work!! We thoroughly enjoyed a thrilling acrobats performance at China's Cultural Theatre Restaurant. Magnificent costumes and such a top performance from a very large cast of talented people. Not to be missed.

Another modern thrill, a ride on the spotless high-speed Maglev train to the airport for our flight to Xian - 40km in seven minutes, a smooth ride in armchair comfort with plenty of spacious luggage compartments (take note NSW Minister for transport!).
There are only two reasons that I could see one would visit Xian. The first is a must - the absolutely amazing Terracotta Warriors and their horses. Quite remarkable that these 6000 life sized soldiers in full battle dress were only discovered by accident when three farmers were digging a well in 1974. Only one of the pottery figures, a kneeling archer, was undamaged, the rest had been smashed during the revolution. Many warriors and horses have been carefully restored already and restoration continues. This Qin Dynasty army was originally made to guard the mausoleum of Qin shihuang and is indeed a magnificent archaeological wonder. The second reason to come to this industrial and polluted city is to visit the very impressive history museum. No other reason - the city haze was so thick one could barely see the buildings in the next block to our hotel - no kidding!

Onto Beijing with a population of 13 million, in full preparation to stage the 2008 Olympics. So much has been done already. I barely recognised the city. Gone are most of the Hutongs and old city houses. One hutong section only remains and is being renovated for tourism. Streets and roads have been widened, lovely avenues of trees and gardens planted. Many new high-rise buildings and renovations underway everywhere one looks. New buses, new taxis and expressways. In fact Beijing is undergoing a total 'face-lift' and 'spring-clean' which has brought an air of excitement to the old city. Even some buildings in the Forbidden City are already proudly sporting gleaming new colourful paintwork and gold-leaf. Others are taking their turn under wraps.

The one place in Beijing where there has been no change is Tiananmen Square; except maybe for the gorgeous display of five really cute Olympic mascots which represent five different sporting disciplines in the colours of the Olympic rings. A green swallow, an orange goat, red flame, black panda and a blue fish. I won't even attempt their Chinese names!

We were lucky to see the site of the yet to be completed Olympic village and Stadium - appropriately nick-named 'the birds-nest' a fascinating structure.
Of course the 600 year old Great Wall of China itself is the same, only the tourist area around the steps leading up to it is busier and more organised. Our local guide took pains to tell us that the wall was definitely not built to keep out the rabbits!! Ah the power of the TV commercial!
We walked the magnificent Sacred Way avenue lined with pairs of large animals each carved out of a single piece of white marble and visited The Sacred Ming Tombs.

Spread over 120 peaceful sq miles, 13 emperors are buried in individual tombs along with 23 empresses (do the math - some obviously had more than one wife). The many concubines are buried in separate tombs. Only three of these tombs are open to the public.
Of course we have been to the Cloisonne factory to see how the skillful oriental art-form is made. Copper objects are decorated with filigree patterns by hand with copper wire and fired before colourful enamel glazes are applied and fired again. Stunning work.

Also visited the silk corporation where 80 spider web thin layers of pure silk makes one doona - who could resist such a luxurious bargain at $100 queen size!!!
The weather in China was kind to us. Not too hot, a perfect time to tour this fascinating country. Another bonus for coming here anytime is the delicious local chinese dishes. Leaves the Bundanoon Chinese Restaurant wanting I can tell you.
Now in beautiful Vietnam; will leave our adventures here until my next email - besides the hotel pool beckons.
Cheers to all
Jeanette 19/10/06

Hello again, this time from Vietnam....
The first thing we noticed when landing in Hanoi from China was the rise in temperature and the humidity. Next; what seemed to be a sort of organised traffic chaos between cars, taxis, pedi-cycles and pedestrians almost clogging the roads. Vietnam has a population of 83 million, 4 mill live in Hanoi and 70% of these are aged between 18-40. I am convinced 99% of this 70% ride some sort of bike or scooter and each is equipped with at least 2 horns and there must be a national law that says each horn is to be blown every two seconds, because that is what they do!

Apart from that, Hanoi is a beautiful city with fascinating French colonial architecture blended with the oriental lifestyle. Very narrow beautifully coloured tall houses (there is a tax on width, not height or depth) called 'tube' houses by the locals.

There are beautiful tree lined boulevards and lakes; in contrast is the hustle and bustle of the old quarter where 40,000 people live per square meter. We explored this fascinating city section on pedi-cycyles and remarkably lived to tell the tale.

This country has seen so much conflict and yet the people are quick to smile very friendly and outgoing and proud of their cultural diversity. All they want is peace and to maintain their independence.
A stark reminder of their brutal history and fight to maintain this independence was our visit to the Hoa Lo Prison. Since 1896 thousands were imprisoned and tortured here, confined in tiny cells with chains and leg irons. From 1964-1973 it was used to detain American pilots shot down whilst bombing Nth Vietnam. The Americans called it Hanoi Hilton. Two thirds of the original prison was demolished in 1993 to make way for a high-rise apartment building. A corner has been preserved as a memorial to the revolutionaries incarcerated who gave their lives for this beautiful country. It was a very sobering visit.

On a lighter note was our visit to a performance of Hanoi's unique Water Puppet Theatre. Very clever and colourful, unfortunately the background music was quite grating to western ears.
I was fascinated to see Ho Chi Minh's historic house on stilts surrounded by a beautiful fragrant flower garden and lake. This is where he lived and worked from 1958 -1969. The house has been preserved in respect to the national liberation hero and symbolizes his simplistic and modest way of living. Ho Chi Minh's embalmed body which is usually on display in a glass case in a magnificent stone and granite mausoleum, is away in Russia for two months for 'treatment'. Apparently this is done every year so we did not get to say hello to him.
If you are thinking of visiting Vietnam, definitely put the UNESCO world heritage site Halong Bay on your must see list. Over 3000 tiny limestone islands are dotted in 1500 sq km of breathtaking emerald waters. We cruised on a red junk and fine dined on fresh crab, prawns, squid and butter fish. Heaven!!

For the petrol heads - the 100 ft junk had a 4 cylinder, diesel indirect injection engine with a rotary pump!

I'm sure you would have heard about the typhoon which hit Danang and surrounds on 1 Oct. Our guide told us 80% of buildings lost roofs and around 60 people were killed. The damage is still evident and the cleanup and rebuilding around the area will take some time. We stayed in a beautiful five star resort in Danang right on China Beach. This resort is built almost on the spot where the US had their air-force base during the American war. Here we took full advantage of a rare free day to relax and lol around the hotel pools and swim in the very tepid water of the China Sea. Seems incredible that in the last two months I have swum in the Red Sea, the Agean Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, Dead Sea and now the China Sea. Actually I didn't really swim in the Dead Sea, sort of just bobbed around!
From Danang we drove through the rural villages and the Red River delta to visit Hoi An. Hoi An is another UNESCO World heritage site with distinct Chinese, Japanese and French influence. It is an old trading port which dates back to the 15th century. It was almost too hot to enjoy sight-seeing and definitely too hot to shop so we took a boat ride on the Thu Bone River which was wonderful. In a very welcome breeze we got up close and personal with many local fishermen and women and it was delightful to see the water buffalo and oxen herded across the river.

We are spending tonight in the rural area of Can Tho in the Mekong Delta. Early tomorrow we will go to the floating markets to see the boats loading in preparation for the day's trading before returning to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). It is fantastic to get out into the countryside and see first hand the traditional lifestyle of the rural people here.

After that we have two days to explore Saigon and to visit the Cu Chi Tunnels - the underground tunnel network constructed by Viet Cong guerrillas during the American war before flying to Siem Reap in Cambodia.

I'm particularly looking forward to seeing Angkor Thom and Angkor Wat.
This time next week we will be back in Sydney and a note to the home chef, I hereby place my order for bangers and mash please!
Until then, take care
Jeanette 22 Oct 06

Hi Everyone,
I flew into Sydney from Siem Reap Cambodia via Singapore Monday. Great to be back.
Just to finish off the last few days of the trip. Ho Chi Minh City, still called Saigon by many residents and tourists, is a safe vital city pulsating with life. Swanky streets are lined with fancy restaurants, art galleries, pricy boutiques and loads of souvenir shops. The city is very noisy so if you are booking accommodation here, make sure the windows are double glazed or take earplugs.
We stayed in total luxury at the beautiful old Majestic Hotel overlooking the river that is busy by day and alive with brightly illuminated river cruise boats at night.

I loved Saigon and would like to spend more time there. It is a shopper's paradise. The tourist dollar is important to the country but it is not necessary to pay the 'tourist' price. Where prices are not 'fixed', you can calmly bargain in a friendly manner and more than likely make your purchase at a greatly reduced price.
In a way I felt sad to leave Vietnam where these courageous and stoic people have struggled for centuries against rebellions, foreign occupation and devastating wars. The horrendous and brutal effects left by Agent Orange is heartbreaking. Another legacy of the various foreign invasions and the American War (we call it the Vietnam War) is the understandable mistrust of foreigners. Although this beautiful country is blessed with fertile river deltas and a climate perfect for cultivating crops especially rice, it still has to deal with typhoons, droughts and poverty and does so with astounding dignity.
A word of warning to animal lovers; Vietnam has restaurants which specialise in dog meat. Although we did not see one, we unfortunately saw at least 4 dogs callously crushed into a wire basket on the back of a bike. In response to our incensed anger to this sickening cruelty, without any embarrassment our local guide cheerfully told us that the dogs were on their way to be sold for eating and that black dogs bring the best price.
Although the flight to Siem Reap is short, our plane was delayed for over four hours which made it a long journey. We were lucky to arrive in perfect time to be taken to the highest Hindu temple built in 893AD. After a climb up many very steep, narrow, deep and uneven stone steps were rewarded by watching a magnificent sunset. As you know I have travelled to many wonderful destinations but standing on the top of the Bakheng temple was one of my most breathtaking and memorable sights. I was aware of a profound and wonderful sense of inner calmness - almost a spiritual experience. I suspect Monks live with this conscious sensation which would explain their peaceful demeanor and devotion.

The main road through Seim Reap is lined with a staggering number of top class hotels. Again we lived in luxury in the Raffles Grand hotel. The temple complex of Angkor just a few km from Siem Reap has many fascinating religious stone or brick buildings of the Angkor period. These temples are ornately decorated by series of mystical and religious motifs in Khmer sculpture.
The best known, largest and most famous of these architectural masterpieces of Cambodia is Angkor Wat.

Angkor literally means 'city' and Wat means 'temple'. Monks have continuously occupied Angkor Wat which is now dedicated to Buddhism. Founded in 802AD it took 30 years to build. It is absolutely stunning. Two of us bravely climbed the treacherously steep uneven stone steps to the top of this well preserved building which is said to be probably the largest religious building on earth. Definitely put it on your 'must visit' list!

Well it is back to reality and the office for me. I intend to have two feet firmly planted in Australia until our next scheduled tour in April 07. You are most welcome to join me for this luxury 20 day tour to exotic Morocco and Dubai.
Thanks again for your emails.
Cheers for now
Jeanette 29 Oct 06

From Jordan

2006-09-29T15:18:00.000+10:00

Hello Friends & Relies

This will be my last missive before we jet off home from Amman on Sunday & Hopefully before that we will have celebrated a victory for the Swans as 2006 AFL Premiers. I will try to tune into the ABC local radio via internet for the coverage of the game. Have already checked that the hotel business centre will be open!

Downtown Amman

Yesterday the temperature was 45 degrees C. Fortunately this suited our schedule drive in A/C comfort & for the two and a half hours journey from Petra to the Dead Sea.

Security is still tight here, we passed through three check-points on this short trip. On arrival we spent the afternoon lounging & in the shade beside the fantastic Movenpick Hotel pool and then floated in the Dead Sea. What a surreal experience that was. At 437 metres below sea level the Dead Sea water is the lowest point on earth and is so exceptionally bouyant it is difficult to stand up. One could easily 'sit' in the sea and read a book. The muddy sea floor is mineral rich and believed to have curative powers. The idea is to cover one's body with the hot mud, leave for 20 minutes and then wash off. Makes the skin feel soft and dare I say it - young! How lucky it was that I brought my 'crocs' with me - perfect for the pebble beaches and hot sand and in this case hot mud.

Must tell you about the Movenpick Resort Hotel. The main building is designed in ornate 500 year old Arabic style architecture. Fantastic stonework.

The hotel rooms and suites on the various lover levels going down to the sea are constructed to resemble 1000 year old crusader style, 100 year old Turkish style and some in old Jerusalem style buildings with streets and external stairs. At the end is the small village square.

The buildings around this square are designed as farm buildings - cowshed and storerooms converted to outlets. It is magnificent and a real treat; especially as John was able to negotiate an excellent room rate as there are so very few tourists here right now. Apart from one Japanese group and one Spanish bus group one could count the tourists we have seen almost on one hand since we arrived in Jordan. Very sad for the country but a real bonus for us.

Jordan is not the only country in the region suffering from the absence of tourists. Turkey, Egypt and Israel are the same and it will possibly continue this way until the conflict between Israel and Lebanon is settled. We get little news and the locals are not keen to discuss it, however The Jordan Times today indicated that Israel is expecting a 'second round' with Hizbollah and will not withdraw their troops in southern Lebanon until an agreement over how the UN peacekeepers and Lebanese army troops would deal with the armed Hizbollah fighters is reached - from what we can gather here, that is unlikely to happen in the near future. One hotel employee told me today that five weeks ago the hotels in Jordan were full of Lebanese fleeing the conflict and now the hotels are close to empty.

On Sept 23 our group on ten split up to go in many different directions. Some continued to different parts of Turkey, some to cruise the Greek Isles and one home to London. Bob Pearce flew home to Australia and his wife Suzie, & ohn and I flew to Cairo from Turkey to continue our adventure.

We hired 'George' - a driver/guide for our short time in Cairo. His brief was to take us to the highlights of the city and introduce us to the 'real' Cairo. The latter part of this brief was probably a huge mistake on our part! We rode horses around the great pyramids and spinx which was fantastic.

Once again only about another dozen tourist in this mighty complex well outnumbered by dozens of heavily armed police on foot and with 4 X 4 vehicles at the ready with guns atop. One felt very safe from terrorists but the security was a little scary. Next came the 'real' Cairo. Wow what an eye opener. Such a filthy dusty noisy city with garbage strewn everywhere. Even the great souk was disgusting and such a disappointment.

George took us to a 'local' restaurant for lunch - I wont begin to tell you how that was.

Finally we toured the best parts of the city. Unfortunately the famous Cairo museum was closed for relocation. We had booked our Cairo hotel on the internet and although it was very basic it suited our needs and in comparison to where George had taken us, it was in a good location almost next door to the Sheraton. We could not wait to leave Cairo.

6am on 25 Sept we caught a bus from Cairo for a six and a half hour journey to the ferry to cross the red sea to Aquaba in Jordan. After many stops at passport check-points we arrived to learn we could not board the ferry for two weeks. We faced two options; return to Cairo or backtract to the boarder and go to Jordan via Israel. As we did not consider Cairo an option, we teamed up with three French travellers and paid a local to drive us to the Egyptian/Israel boarder, about sixty km.

Tried to get a loose leaf Israel visa at this boarder and not have our passports stamped but were refused. Eventually with stamped passports we walked the 200 odd metres crossing into Israel without any problem.

A very friendly taxi driver took us to the Israel/Jordanian boarder where we obtained our Jordanian visa. It was a relief to finally get to Aquaba and the red sea where everything is clean and calm.

Since then we have swam in the red sea,visited the vast and ruggedly stark echoing desert of Wadi Rum and wandered the ancient city of Petra - the reason we came to Jordan.

Petra did not disappoint. It is one of Jordan's national treasures and the legacy of the Nabateans who settled in South Jordan more than 2000 years ago.

It is such a spectacular setting deep inside a narrow desert gorge via an awesome immense crack in the sandstone that winds for one kilometer between overhanging cliffs.

At the end of this walk is the dramatic appearance of Petra's famous monuments, the Treasury, plus literally hundreds of buildings, facades, tombs and temples and a theatre from the 1st centary AD.

We were so very fortunate that the Japanese group I mentioned before stood on the 'stage' of this historic theatre and sang. It was very moving and astonishing to hear the echo around the gorge.

We are in the middle of The holy month of Ramadam now. This time is greeted with enthusiasm by Muslims and has caused only a slight problem for us in that it is difficult to buy alcohol, even in some on the best hotels, until after sundown. Ramadam is the time for Muslims to reflect, give to charity and be conscientious of personal behaviour. One guide said this means fasting from dawn to sundown and no sex. The mix here is said to be 80 % muslim and 20% other religions - mainly Christian. In the mosques during Ramadam, the Holy Koran is recited by someone who has memorised the holy book. They have a pre dawn meal called the Suhur and after sundown everything comes to a standstill for Iftar or breakfast. Both meals are a religious type event from what I can gather. Many shops are closed throughout Ramadam.

We hired a car and John drove from the Dead Sea to the city of mosaics, Madaba to the Graeco-Roman city of Jerash and onto Amman.

Tomorrow is our last full day of this amazing adventure so we plan to have a splash-up Jordanian dinner tonight. God willing John and will land in Sydney Monday evening. Suzie is going back to Istanbul for a few days before heading home.

Thanks again to everyone for the emails.

Jeanette

Merhaba from Turkey

2006-09-21T16:15:00.000+10:00

Merhaba everyone.

It was with only slight trepidation we departed Sydney bound for Istanbul on Sept 2 conscious of DEFAT'S warning to exercise extreme caution if travelling to Turkey. It is now 17 days into our trip and so far not one sign of trouble of any kind. The first impression of Istanbul when coming into land was a huge city full of high rise apartment buildings. In fact the old city has beautiful historic buildings.

Istanbul is a really delightful city that reminds me of parts of Morocco.

Shoreline of the Bosphorus
We stayed in a gorgeous private hotel ideally situated in Sultanahmet in the heart of old Byzantium and only a few minutes from the Blue Mosqueö Topkapi Palace and Aghia Sophia Museum.

To watch the sunset on the rooftop terrace of Hotel Empress Zoe with a G & T in hand is like living a fairytale.

The Turks are friendly, helpful and welcoming and many speak English. We soon discovered their love of domestic animals with very healthy and spoilt cats and dogs everywhere. This country is beautiful and has a rich and mixed cultural history due to the contribution of several ancient civilizations evident by the many fascinating ruins and ancient sites - some well preserved.

The image above is inside St Nicholas Church.
We are a group of 10 made up of four Canadians five Aussies and one Englishman. At day 19, still friends and speaking, so doing nicely.

Malcolm, Louise, Michael,Silvia and Rod
Susie and Bob Pearce from Benalla in Victoria, John and myself arrived three days before the rest of the group. We took a two day guided tour and visited Gallapoli peninsula including Anzac Cove of course and the various memorial sites of the countries involved in the battles of this historic peninsula. For some reason I did not experience the same heart-wrenching emotion I did when visiting the Australian war memorial in the battlefields of France. We had an excellent guide who gave an unbiased account of the battle between his countryman and ours and as he said really the whole exercise in the end was for absolutely nothing.

We crossed the Dardenelles and spent one night in Canakkale then the next day explored the old city of Troy. This was fascinating.

From Istanbul we flew to Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassus) famous for the Bodrum castle built by the Knights of St John in 15th century and converted to a prison in 1895. The castle was bombarded by the French warship Dubleix and was abandoned for many years. Today it houses the underwater archaeology museum.

Onto Göcek marina where we collected two 40 ft Beneteau sailing boats - 5 persons to each.

We set sail for seven nights sailing around the Ionian coast of the Aegean Sea.

After two days I was more than ready to 'jump ship' at Dalyan, a very pretty village built of the river where the cannels of the river wind through the reed-beds of the estuary amidst spectacular mountain scenery. However I stuck with it, the sea-sickness subsided and I thoroughly enjoyed the remainder of our time on the water.

We anchored in beautiful and tranquil bays and I loved diving into the clear blue bouyant water in perfect temperature with absolutely no threat of sharks or other nasties.

Snorkling was great although no colourful coral like that which can be found on our northern coastline.

On Saturday 16 Sept we sailed back to Göcek marina and said goodbye to 'Anastasia' and 'Moonshine Bay - I was not altogether unhappy to do that.

We have hired a 15 seated VW coach with driver for the remainder of our time together as a group in Turkey.

Josef our driver is a pleasant young Turk with limited English and a good sense of humour.

Our first day we drove onto Fithiye and then Olu Deniz. Olu Deniz is a a very scenic beachside tourist town known as one of the best locations in the world for paragliding. Suzie P and I could not resist the temptation. Soon we were in a 4 X 4 vehicle and had a very rough 45 minute drive up to the top of Babadag (Father) mountain. The 130 Turkish lire was worth every bit to experience the drive up and take off from the top of the mountain and float 6550 ft down in the gentle sea breezes with stunning views of Fethiye, Hisarome and Oludeniz and land on the beach.

Better than parachuting from a plane, better than parasailing and much better than bungy jumping.
Right now we are staying at a private mountain lodge in Tlos. The view from our room over the valley to distant mountains is beautiful.

It is hot but the hotel has a lovely pool. Out hostess Mel is a gorgeous Kurd about 40, whippet slim with boundless energy.

She led up on a hike this morning along bush tracks beside mountain streams up to the ancient city ruins of Tlos with a historic past estimated dating back 2000 year BC.

One of the most prominent settlements due to the splendor of the ruins with the city wall of the Roman era and rock tombs of the Lycian culture. The view from the top of the acropolis are absolutely spectacular and worth every inch of the trek.

From here we go on exploring more of the South east of Turkey until 23 Sept when this part of our journey will be over and each will go their own way.

Our original plan to go through Syria to Jordan was quickly abandoned when the fighting broke out between Lebanon and Israel. Suzie P, John and I now plan to fly back to Istanbul and onto Cairo for a couple of nights to visit the great pyramids and sphinx. Then to take a bus from Cairo to the ferry from Nuweiba to Aquaba in Jordan. We are keen to visit Petra and then the Savs will fly home from Amman arriving Sydney Oct 2.That's the plan but may change.
In the meantime we are thoroughly enjoying delicious food, wine and great company.

Breakfast at Mountain Lodge

Freshly picked grapes with figs to die for.

Malcome - not sure about the good wine!
I have my fingers crossed for the Sydney Swannies to win next Friday night to get them to the grand final. I can't believe that they have reached the finals two years in a row and I have been out of the country both times!
Thanks to my friends who deep in touch via email and text - any news from home is exciting to receive and always welcome.
Turkish keyboards are like a lot of keyboards in Europe so I hope what is transmitted is understandable. It is the best I can do.

Until next time - stay well and safe
Jeanette