Hi Everyone,
The south island of The Land of the Long White Cloud is more amazingly beautiful than I remember from my last visit about 1967 when I lived in NZ for a short time.
We flew into Christchurch on Emirates and stayed in the Grand Chancellor Hotel in the centre of the city where the hotel’s claim to fame is that with 20 stories it is the tallest building in Christchurch. Reviews told us to expect a hotel with tired furnishings catering to large groups so this hotel wasn’t our first choice, however we were pleasantly surprised. The reception staff were welcoming and friendly and the Concierge first-rate. Our room on the 18th floor was spacious, clean and very comfortable with a pleasant outlook. At least two Japanese groups were staying at the hotel but with 3 super fast lifts available and a large reception area they were no bother at all. On our last night we went against our usual policy of not eating in our hotel restaurant and what a surprise -pleasant ambience, fantastic English bangers with fluffy mash, minted baby peas and rich onion gravy. Delicious/Scrumptious/Yummy! I’m salivating just thinking about it.
Of course we have sampled various NZ baby lamb dishes that understandably are the popular fare offered on almost every restaurant menu here. I must be hungry writing so much about food, but before I move on, must mention the taste sensation we discovered last evening in a Thai restaurant in Wanaka – Red Curry Salmon. Wow. Although we hesitated ordering this dish, the large chunks of salmon blended beautifully with the medium red curry sauce. Food is somewhat expensive here. I’m told the North Island is less so. We will see. No more food talk!!
For a city, Christchurch was deserted but livened up somewhat on our second night when the Irish and others came out to celebrate St Patricks’ day. Joining in the festivities at Baillie’s Pub we watched a great performance of Irish dancing by the Irish Dancing School followed by a not-so-great sort of Irish dancing by the pub patrons. The hop-on-hop-off beautifully restored tram with commentary is a joyful way to get around the city centre and see the lovely heritage buildings, old-world shopping streets and visit the various art galleries and numerous cafés. The Christchurch Cathedral in the square in the heart of the city is an impressive building with a gift shop and café. Loitering on the sunny Cathedral Square watching the giant chess games and listening to the crazy spruikers on soapboxes is a fun pastime as is meandering along the manicured banks of the Avon River watching the authentic Edwardian punter take his passengers peacefully down the Avon. Like stepping back 100 years, so delightful.
Our four and a half hour, 231 km trip from Christchurch to Greymouth on the TranzAlpine, rated as one of the great train journeys of the world, began in thick fog. Luckily the fog lifted quickly to let the sun shine through as we crossed the Canterbury Plains and climbed the alpine foothills to reach 737 metre high Arthur’s Pass surrounded by snow-capped mountains.
Then down through the Otira Tunnel through rainforest and lakes to be greeted by rain in Greymouth. This mining town on the shores of the Tasman Sea is very well named….awfully grey and drab, no change in 40 years. Not to worry, our rental car was waiting and off we sped north on the scenic coastal road to Punakaiki to see the incredible pancake rocks and blowhole.
Heading south again, we left the rain behind to overnight in Franz Josef where we had (NB: I no longer ‘celebrate’) my birthday dinner at a lovely restaurant where (dare I mention food again), I had NZ lamb cutlets followed by cheese cake with 1 candle!
Today began precariously (not sure that is the right word but it will do). Down to rental car – battery flat! (Any lights left on? – Absolutely not says John!) While the new battery was being fitted, John tossed the local barber double or nothing for a hair cut – you guessed it, the barber won! He (the barber that is) was a very happy chappie and has probably discovered a new marketing gambit for his barbershop. John verbally lamented the toss all the way to Cardrona. (i.e. whinged). Oh how I wished Sydney, the 20-year-old Canadian hitchhiker we had on board from Franz Josef to Wanaka was still with us to share his bleats (fitting word for NZ!).
Thank goodness Devonshire tea in the stunning grounds of the delightful Cardrona Hotel, one of NZ’s oldest hotels, est. 1863, brightened his day. A picnic lunch and wander through the quaint old gold rush town of Arrowtown came next. The movie trigily, Lord of The Rings was filmed around this town. The scenery on the drive today has been nothing short of spectacular. Queenstown is postcard picture perfect and lively. That means more than 50 people! Our hotel room overlooks Lake Watatipu back-dropped by the Remarkables (mountains). Just when all happy, John’s day became shaky again - paid $12 to connect to the internet -it is not working, the phone is out of order (the maintenance man gone home), can’t watch the local rugby game on TV unless he subscribes and to top it all off – NO ICE FOR THE G & T!!!! Can only get better! I just spied the steamship TSS Earnslaw on the lake. It looks great– shall put it on our list of must-do’s tomorrow which no doubt will be a wonderful day in paradise! Going for a big fat sizzling NZ steak in a pub with a big screen so all will be good - that is if the right team wins and JS doesn’t lose his bet!!!
Stay well and happy,
Jeanette 21.3.2009
The south island of The Land of the Long White Cloud is more amazingly beautiful than I remember from my last visit about 1967 when I lived in NZ for a short time.
We flew into Christchurch on Emirates and stayed in the Grand Chancellor Hotel in the centre of the city where the hotel’s claim to fame is that with 20 stories it is the tallest building in Christchurch. Reviews told us to expect a hotel with tired furnishings catering to large groups so this hotel wasn’t our first choice, however we were pleasantly surprised. The reception staff were welcoming and friendly and the Concierge first-rate. Our room on the 18th floor was spacious, clean and very comfortable with a pleasant outlook. At least two Japanese groups were staying at the hotel but with 3 super fast lifts available and a large reception area they were no bother at all. On our last night we went against our usual policy of not eating in our hotel restaurant and what a surprise -pleasant ambience, fantastic English bangers with fluffy mash, minted baby peas and rich onion gravy. Delicious/Scrumptious/Yummy! I’m salivating just thinking about it.
Of course we have sampled various NZ baby lamb dishes that understandably are the popular fare offered on almost every restaurant menu here. I must be hungry writing so much about food, but before I move on, must mention the taste sensation we discovered last evening in a Thai restaurant in Wanaka – Red Curry Salmon. Wow. Although we hesitated ordering this dish, the large chunks of salmon blended beautifully with the medium red curry sauce. Food is somewhat expensive here. I’m told the North Island is less so. We will see. No more food talk!!
 |
| Christchurch Cathedral & Tram |
Our four and a half hour, 231 km trip from Christchurch to Greymouth on the TranzAlpine, rated as one of the great train journeys of the world, began in thick fog. Luckily the fog lifted quickly to let the sun shine through as we crossed the Canterbury Plains and climbed the alpine foothills to reach 737 metre high Arthur’s Pass surrounded by snow-capped mountains.
Then down through the Otira Tunnel through rainforest and lakes to be greeted by rain in Greymouth. This mining town on the shores of the Tasman Sea is very well named….awfully grey and drab, no change in 40 years. Not to worry, our rental car was waiting and off we sped north on the scenic coastal road to Punakaiki to see the incredible pancake rocks and blowhole.
 |
| Pancake Rocks |
 |
| Franz Josef glazier |
Today began precariously (not sure that is the right word but it will do). Down to rental car – battery flat! (Any lights left on? – Absolutely not says John!) While the new battery was being fitted, John tossed the local barber double or nothing for a hair cut – you guessed it, the barber won! He (the barber that is) was a very happy chappie and has probably discovered a new marketing gambit for his barbershop. John verbally lamented the toss all the way to Cardrona. (i.e. whinged). Oh how I wished Sydney, the 20-year-old Canadian hitchhiker we had on board from Franz Josef to Wanaka was still with us to share his bleats (fitting word for NZ!).
Thank goodness Devonshire tea in the stunning grounds of the delightful Cardrona Hotel, one of NZ’s oldest hotels, est. 1863, brightened his day. A picnic lunch and wander through the quaint old gold rush town of Arrowtown came next. The movie trigily, Lord of The Rings was filmed around this town. The scenery on the drive today has been nothing short of spectacular. Queenstown is postcard picture perfect and lively. That means more than 50 people! Our hotel room overlooks Lake Watatipu back-dropped by the Remarkables (mountains). Just when all happy, John’s day became shaky again - paid $12 to connect to the internet -it is not working, the phone is out of order (the maintenance man gone home), can’t watch the local rugby game on TV unless he subscribes and to top it all off – NO ICE FOR THE G & T!!!! Can only get better! I just spied the steamship TSS Earnslaw on the lake. It looks great– shall put it on our list of must-do’s tomorrow which no doubt will be a wonderful day in paradise! Going for a big fat sizzling NZ steak in a pub with a big screen so all will be good - that is if the right team wins and JS doesn’t lose his bet!!!
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| Where to start! |
Jeanette 21.3.2009
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