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| Famious NYC Carnegie Deli |
Hi Everyone,
Almost on the home-run now and beginning to look forward to getting back to Australia, home and dumping the suitcases! It has been a wonderful trip and we have covered so much ground without rushing.
Once again I am composing this missive on a train – Amtrak this time, New York City to Toronto.
HERE IS THE ABRIDGED VERSION FOR BUSY FOLK-
Following on from my last email:- After 3 days in Quebec City we travelled by car through Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island with Richard & Valerie Pennick and John & Karen Burchell. For ten days we played tourists visiting many of the National Historic Sites of Canada and places of interest. We covered some very scenic countryside including the Cabot Trail. This mini trip finished with 2 nights in Halifax before we flew to New York City for 4 nights. Heaven. I absolutely adore the no-stop buzz of Manhatten. Shortly we will disembark this train at Toronto from where we will fly home in 4 days time. OK- Bye busy folk – get back to work!!
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| Love people watching in NYC |
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| Foods good too |
Now the unabridged version for those who have time to spare: -
This morning we left Penn station in NYC at 7.15am for our 12 hr trip to Toronto Canada. Comfy leather seats, plenty of leg room. Like many rules and regulations which have changed in US since 9/11, trains no longer have baggage cars. All luggage travels with its owner, however there is generous luggage space. Post boxes hardly exist either because of the fear of bombs being dumped inside.
I’m sad to be leaving the bright lights and buzz of New York City. Even though we hardly drew breath during our 4 days there and had visited only last year, there is still so many things left to do and see in this vibrant city which Richard Pennick aptly described as the centre of the universe. Our arrival at our NY hotel was memorable and had us somewhat stunned; the entrance and half the hotel resembled a bomb site. Until then we were unaware the hotel is undergoing major renovations. The saving grace was the top location between 6th & 7th Avenue on 47th street, a mere stone’s throw from the bright lights of pulsating Times Square, the exciting Broadway theatre district and the Rockefeller Center plus our transfer to a modern renovated room after John had a word with the hotel Manager.
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| From this |
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| to this!! |
Needless to say my NY ‘to-do’ list is shorter now. Apart from re-visited and people-watching in the distinct neighborhoods such as Chinatown, Little Italy etc we of course ‘did’ the famous NYC discount stores. My purchasing was stymied – no room in my tiny suitcase, no doubt probably a financial blessing.
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| Cycling in Central Park |
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| Walking Brooklyn Bridge |
In perfect weather, John and I hired bikes and cycled around and through the great Central Park, we walked the elevated pedestrian crossing of the Brooklyn Bridge with views over Manhattan and the statue of Liberty; this was the closest we got to climb the 354 narrow steps to the top of the great dame. We finally got to see the musical Jersey Boys on Broadway (missed it last year), dined at some fabulous restaurants outside the tourist areas, joined the huge rowdy flag- waving colourful crowd last Sunday to watch one of NY’s largest parades, the spectacular Puerto Rican Day Parade along 5th Avenue – all smiles and salsa, even saw Jennifer Lopez and Michael Bloomberg. It was amazing to see NYPD guys and gals not marching but dancing, singing and waving madly, having a wonderful time responding to the enthusiasm of the predominately Puerto Rican crowd. What a stunning looking race they are (the Puerto Ricans, not the members of the NYPD). The state troopers were another matter…..they marched in perfect time, no smiles, no flags – totally professional and serious and definitely no sideway glances towards the energized spectators. No prizes either for spotting the secret service agents scattered throughout – tiny wires running from their ears down the back of tailored dark grey suits, sporting #1 cuts on top of oh-so-serious faces with eagle eyes darting it all directions - just like on TV. We were told NY has 30000 police and I believe each one was on duty for the day of the parade.
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| Puerto Rican Day Parade |
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| Puerto Rican Day Parade |
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| Spot the secret service guy!! |
Since I emailed last we spent time in John’s favourite city Quebec City staying at the fabulous historic Chateau Frontenac. That was a once in a lifetime thrill for me. Like Montreal Quebec city is more French than Paris.
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| We stayed at the fabulous Chateau Frontenac |
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| Chateau Frontenac at night. |
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| Our room at Chateau Frontenac |
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| Art Street in Old Quebec City |
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| Old Quebec City |
We took a sleeper on an overnight train to arrive in rainy Truro, Nova Scotia where we were met by Richard and Valerie Pennick and John and Karen Burchell.
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| John settling in for the overnight train journey |
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| Arriving in Nova Scotia |
We spent the next two nights relaxing as guests of John and Karen at the Burchell family beach cottage in Brule Bay. It was here I experienced for the first time the famous Nova Scotia home lobster boil dinner. The fresh live lobsters (one each) were dropped into a large pot of boiling sea water to cook. Wearing bibs and sitting around the large dining table covered in plastic and thick layers of newspaper, table manners were discarded as the ever so tasty sea bugs were dissected and devoured without aplomb and (in my case anyway) much needed instruction and many laughs from the locals. Such a special treat before setting off on our 10 day adventure together which began with a drive over the 13km Confederation Bridge to first visit Prince Edward Island and many National Historic sites of Canada spread over Nova Scotia.
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| Puchasing the lobsters - about $5 a kilo |
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| Lobsters boiled in salt water from the sea |
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| Ready to eat! |
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| Bruel Bay Nova Scotia |
Highlights of PEI included Charlottetown, the birthplace of Confederation and the Province House, a National Historic Site of Canada. I’m sure just like I did, many of you read Anne of Green Gables by Lucy Maud Montgomery when you were growing up. It was interesting to visit the lovely house and gardens where this book was set and where the author was married. Today there is a museum attached where you can have your photo taken wearing Anne’s hat with bright red/orange braids! There are also loads of books, videos, quilts, throws, jewellery and tacky souvenirs for sale.
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| Anne ??? |
We returned to Nova Scotia via the car ferry from Wood Island to Caribou to Cape Breton. Here we stayed in a gracious B & B called Annfield Manor at Bras d’Or. This historic building in magnificent grounds had once been the home of John Burchell’s grandfather and boasts the first ever private elevator in Nova Scotia. Although no longer operational is still in place waiting to be re-commissioned.
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| Annfield Manor at Bras d’Or |
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| Annfield Manor at Bras d’Or |
With some embarrassment I must confess my knowledge of Nth American history was practically non-existent before this trip. I am happy to have been introduced to the enthralling times past even at this late stage in life!!! Consequently I am presently reading and totally absorbed by the historic novel ‘His Majesty’s Yankees’, written by Thomas H. Randall, set in Nova Scotia during the American Revolution. We were fortunate to visit many of the historic landmarks featured in this book including a wonderful day visiting, the Fortress of Louisbourg, now a National historic site of Canada. A fascination day which took us back in time to the sights and sounds of 1744 when Louisbourg was a fortified French colonial stronghold seaport town that later endured two violent sieges. By 1760 the English had captured and destroyed the fortifications. This is the largest reconstructed 18th century town in Nth America and well worth a visit.
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| Fortress of Louisbourg |
Also very worth a visit was the Alexander Graham-Bell museum. An awesome memorial to to a great teacher, inventor and humanitarian.
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| Alexander Graham-Bell museum |
The weather wasn’t the best during this time but failed to dampen our spirits. We drove the famed Cabot Trail loop anti clockwise and mainly in rain which was a pity but could still appreciate the beauty of the Cape Breton Highlands National Park and the French and MacKenzie mountains. I hope one day to do this stunning trail again in sunshine.
I also really enjoyed walking through the elegant country mansion of Richard John Uniacke. Historians will know the significance of this prosperous Irishman, politician and later attorney general who was once arrested on the suspension of treason after the Cumberland Rebellion. A reportedly dashing man, he married Martha, the 13 year old daughter of his employer and had 12 children. This mansion was home to seven generations of his family. Poor Martha died at 42 – probably from exhaustion although that is not officially recorded!
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| Uniacke Mansion |
The architecture in Nova Scotia is typical New England style, neat, freshly painted weatherboard homes set in manicured unfenced lawns. Most churches are weatherboard too including the steeples and painted white with black trim.
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| Typical Nova Scotia architecture |
Another notable stop south of Halifax was the charming town of Lunenburg. Situated on the edge of the Altantic, Lunenberg is full of old world charm and wonderful architecture. It is home to Bluenose 11, which we were fortunate to board and walk around the deck. Built on the wharf, the renowned Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic was like going back in time with fascinating exhibits and magnificent aquarium.
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Fisheries museum - takin from the deck of Bluenose 11.
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I'm sure you have heard of Peggy's Cove and the renowned lighthouse. The day we visited it was surrounded by a filming crew.
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| The lighthouse at Peggy's Cove |
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| Peggys Cove |
Halifax as you know is the capital of Nova Scotia. It’s a walking city and would be boring if it was without such an important past. A Canadian had told me Halifax was very much like Sydney Australia – absolute rubbish!!! The city architecture is very drab although just on the city fringe there are some magnificent old homes. The city gardens are stunning as is the art gallery and the Maritime Museum is extremely interesting.
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| Deck chair from the Titanic at Maritime Museum |
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| One of the tombs of a victum of the Titanic |
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| Many Titanic victums are burried in this Cemetery |
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| Entrance gate to the stunning Halifax Public Garden |
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Part of Halifax Public Garden
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| A hearty Nova Scotian breakfast! |
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We have just had a taste of the high security to expect in Toronto which is hosting the G20 summit in the next week or so. Customs and immigration usually check travel docs on the train at the US/Canadian border. Today every passenger had to disembark with all luggage and file through a makeshift ‘immigration office’ at the Niagara Rail Station. About 10 very stern custom officers wearing flap-jacks and weighed down with massive amount of weaponry paraphernalia plus sniffer dogs searched the train and everyone was processed were we allowed to re-board. Some passengers were rejected, including a nun.
Well that’s about it for now.
See you back in Australia in the very near future all being well.
Jeanette 17.6.10
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